Day 18 – Tuesday 26 May

Vern was determined to get this transport exercise right and he did perfectly. We got a bus from outside the hotel, on the correct side of the road and hopped off down by the water – there are two main wharfs down there. It happened to be pretty close to the one we needed for Uskudar, on the Asian continent side.

It was a beautiful calm slightly fresh morning that promised a very warm day. The cloudless blue sky lit up the Bosphorus displaying its bright turquoise blue colour. The ferry was old, rocky but not crowded and we got to enjoy the fresh air on the open deck. On arriving in Uskudar about 20 minutes later we commenced the stroll along the promenade which was lined with fishermen of all ages.

They were hauling in small sprats on a jig set of about 10 hooks, and putting them in medium plastic jars like small bucket size. I understand these can be eaten dusted in flour and fried or can be used as live bait for bigger fish. These fishermen lined side by comfortable side for almost 2km walk we did.

There were quite a few locals also enjoying the day out so it was not as relaxing as experience as we had hoped for the quieter side of the city, and the temperature was certainly heating up to the high 20’s so we wandered inland away from the expensive cafe’s with views to a back street where we found a very good kebab stand. We ordered a half roll each, one chicken and one lamb and sat on the narrow pavement on thin metal chairs and table next to young couple who shared the spice shaker and jar of pickled chilli’s. It was also one of the cheapest meals we have had and up there for quality.

We continued on through the back streets taking in the atmosphere and caught a ferry back to the European mainland. This time it was horridly crowded with standing room like a Portuguese sardine can. Hot, grumpy bodies, no one considering others, the boat strained its way across the water. We felt there was no consideration for safety, and wryly pondered the thought of a swim not being a bad thing should things go pear shaped (except for all the jelly fish we saw).

We docked near the bridge that is famous for fisherman cooking and serving freshly caught fish sandwiches, but did not see them in action. We did see the many restaurants under the bridge, or rather smelt them before we even saw them. I love fish, but the smell I was getting was not at all appetising and made me feel a little ill. They pre cook and display the fish and I presume heat them up again to serve. This offends my sense of cooking and food handling at every level. I think cat food would be more appetising.

We had a brief look and with wrinkled noses left the area to find our bus stop to take us home. Our legs were a little tired from our walking and it felt even hotter than when we were on the promenade in the breeze. It took us a while and a reasonable walk before we found the right spot – I think we had returned to the different port.

When we got home we enquired at reception if there were any spa slots free. Here you have to book to go to the pool which is in the spa area and includes access to the sauna room. They do not serve alcohol here either due to Muslim etiquette I think. Back to the spa, they only allow one guest group – you in at the time slot, so there is full privacy. Nice, but not very efficient for 10 slots in a day for a big hotel for someone to use the pool. Anyway, we were lucky to get a cancellation, so quickly went upstairs, got our swimwear and Turkish robes on and went down to our nice private spa and lovely tepid pool.

It was delicious to unwind in the quiet covered area and stretch out our tired muscles that have been pounding hard roads and paths. Refreshed we rested a while and then went up the street to our local area and tried to get into another restaurant that seemed popular. It had a queue half way up the side street so we choose another a bit further up.

It was quite nice, but the service and food not quite as good as the previous one in the area. We had a lovely rice pilaf, a bean dish, and a chicken tandoor dish. The Turkish have a thing for raw onion it seems and this place just served up a 1/4 large white onion in a chunk next to the rocket leaves as the complimentary side dish. I be like, what the heck am I meant to do with that? Eat it like an apple?

Half way through our meal the grill area had a massive smoke up that filled the hot small restaurant and it made me feel a little ill. I could not wait to get out of the place and it kind of triggered my tummy in respect of, “I think there may be something not quite right with the meal” kind of feeling.

I felt better as I headed home with a bit of fresh air and settled my stomach with the last glass from my Fethiye bottle of Rose. Vern was not so affected, but did say he wants a break from Turkish tomorrow. I have not argued with that despite it breaking our eat in Rome as the Romans when we are on holiday.