Day 17 – Monday 25 May

The sun was making the terrace breakfast area very warm this morning and a few patrons were complaining. We were fortunate to get a table on a shaded side so it was not too bad for us. Once again we are thankful that we have not come here in peak summer – I think it would be too unpleasant for us temperate climate people.

Breakfast was varied from yesterday which was good to see. Our appetites have become more moderate in order to be kinder to our digestions which seems to be working and finally we are back to 100% normal. It is quite limiting going out and about when you are concerned you may have to find a toilet with urgency – especially in such a huge city like Istanbul. On one of my favourite topics, most of the toilets in Turkey so far have been very clean, including everyone in the city we have used so far – public and private.

Vern has researched best he can the buses that might take us to the various sites. There is a stop right outside our hotel and he has figured which ones take us to the metro we arrived at, where we can also change to a tram or train. There are numerous and frequently public transport, however the maps etc and trying to figure out which direction they are going is rather difficult.

Today we planned to go across the water to the modern side of town at Taksim square and walk down the 2km pedestrian street ending up at the Galata tower.

We saw a bus with Taksim on it as the end part, so grabbed that. After a while Vern mentioned he was concerned as we should have gone across the Golden horn water way by now, but we hadn’t. We contemplated hopping off, but then decided to stay on a while longer. Ten minutes later, still no water so we hopped off. We had got on the right bus, but wrong direction and were half way to the airport…

No worries, this is how you learn. Back on the bus across in the right direction and 20 minutes later we were at Taksim square. A note on bus etiquette – people do not seem to make allowance for the old. They younger set do not share that value as in other countries.

We have started to see a few homeless people which is a surprise on the one hand. We saw none in the smaller areas outside the city. Istiklal street is very touristic and was crowded. There were army and police visible just keeping an eye on things. We ran the gauntlet past people trying to sell or get you to come in and chose a restaurant to have a light lunch. It was not great unfortunately – not bad, just very lean on everything. We had a thin wrap kebab, and just a kebab sliced meat. There was no pre mezze offered which was mean too.

There was a Catholic Church on the way to the tower that we went inside and it was startling the different vibe to a mosque. Not in a bad way, just very different. There was more intimacy and varied colour and outside some lovely sculptures.

When we arrived at the tower the thick crowd has impenetrable. Vern estimates around 300 people waiting to get in. A Turkish gentleman came over and started talking – saying that 30 euro was too much to go up the top and pointed to a terrace restaurant next to it where we could have a coffee and enjoy the same views. The money we saved would pay for dinner – not that we were being tight, it was comparative to our sense of value for money.

This sounded a great idea, and we did not feel we missed out on a lot. The terrace was right next to the tower, so we got a good view of that, and the views were not 360 as it would have been from the top of the tower, but certainly gave the same idea. The terrace was 5 floors up and full of trendy young people smoking and taking very posed selfies whilst supping their coffee and taking nibbles of shared gateaux.

On our way down to a metro the crowds seemed even worse. This may be exciting for some, but for us it took the shine off things and just made it all too touristy. This time we got the train back, which was easier than a bus to work out, leaving a short 10 minute walk home. On the way we made the impromptu decision to go inside a large mosque.

It was lovely and peaceful and away from the crowds and phone cameras swivelling at every angle. Truely an active place of worship that provided a nice time for contemplation. Home for a tea and sample of some of the baklava we bought on Istiklal street before going out for dinner at our new local up the street.

On the way up the first incline we smelt something not so nice and then came across an open shop covered shop area that was full of mainly sheep and a few goats. We thought perhaps this was where the butchers up the street got their meat, but found out from reception later it was for sacrifice for the 4 day feasting festival starting tomorrow.

We were given a warm welcome at the restaurant and had another very nice meal. Tonight a typical lentil soup and a ‘green roll’ which was not what I googled, albeit delicious. Lamb meat with seasoning sliced off a grill or roast – tandoori, wrapped in a pancake type bread with tomato based sauce and a delicious strained yoghurt – like delicate quark.

We are the only Europeans we have seen eating in the area which is purely local. This is what is exciting us about this part of the journey – getting away from the touristy spots and just observing the local life. Next door the man that was cooking the other night had prepared a large plate of meat and a little table was set up on the street for about 5 men to have dinner together. One arrived with a bag of bread loaves and there was some soft dip and bottles of soda.

Another old man was selling back scratchers and some wooden toys; he indicated selling a back scratcher to me, demonstrating the action. I smiled, shook my head and indicated it was Vern’s job. I was rewarded with a big partly toothless grin and nod of acknowledgement.

These local spots and interactions are the warm memories of the authentic Turkey we will bring home, along with some of the wonderful historical places and country side we have seen.