Wednesday 16 October

Today was probably the worst weather so far, rain has well and truely settled in for the day, with some stronger wind gusts.  We had a relaxed start and just after we sat down for breakfast we saw a European Mink move down from the walkway and into the water.  We thought the one we saw squashed the day before yesterday was an otter, however, the host said the one this morning was a mink. I looked it up, and they were one and the same, with the exception of this morning’s one being a lot larger – probably around small cocker spaniel size in height, with longer body of course. 

Thinking about it, there is no need to kill animals for fur coats unless you are indigenous and also use the rest of the animal.  Sheep, llama, goat, and possum etc can all have haircuts!  Mind you sheep are rather tasty too…

After breakfast we laid low, attending to some business matters and mapping out the next few days transit details before heading out at around 2pm. It really was not going to be that enjoyable in the dull rain, however, we figured it was wasting this opportunity if we did not at least try to see something. We had thought of the Viking museum which is in a restored chieftains longhouse, however the reviews were too mixed to have the confidence our entry of $40nzd each would be worthwhile.

Instead we set the navigation for Henningsvaer, about an hour and a half north, in between Svolvær and Leknes.  It is also known for having the most northerly soccer field in the world, sitting within the Arctic circle.  Despite the rain, we could see some pretty scenes driving along, especially the yellow seaweed that I find most fascinating and attractive, and the green and cream mosses covering rocks and boulders all around.  Additionally there are some lovely curved bridges and causeways with light green almost neon water on either side.  I hope almost with desperation, that tomorrows commute to our next stay in Svolvær will be clear and fine enough to capture this type beauty on camera.

Henningsvaer is quite a cute town, known as the Venice of the north.  Mmmm, a bit like the Paris of the north this requires a lot of imagination and no, I do not think it is anything like Venice. There is one little sheltered harbour, however, it is no more like Venice than Honfleur is.  It has a rich history in fishing as most places in Lofoten, and a population of around 500 permanent residents.  It had a bit of action going on in cafes late in the dull afternoon. This is a first we have seen in Lofoten, so it did add a bit of life and character.  It is also a bit of a round village inside a rocky perimeter, accessed by a series of two bridges, which is also a bit different from the sparsely populated other villages with only one or two streets, along the side of a road, 

We found the soccer pitch and Vern practiced his technique with an air ball.  The wind was strong and chilled and woke one up quickly.  It was a great idea to have this built on a rock. Picture taken, (and looking a bit like Santa Clause) we headed back home via the supermarket in Leknes for dinner supplies.

Driving along, we discussed our thoughts on Lofoten.  I had very high expectations, and it cost us an arm and a leg to stay here.  Sadly the 4 days have been mainly cloudy and wet, with a few hours of sun breaking through clouds intermittently on a couple of days.  This is apparently normal – the locals said to us “welcome to Lofoten”.  

There have been plenty of wow moments of the scenery, however when you break it down it is same-same different.  Sheer, dramatic mountains rising up out of crystal clear tropical coloured aqua, green and blue reflective fjords.  Multiple waterfalls, autumn colours, mossy rocks.  Different iterations of the same elements. There is very little wildlife – bird or animal. There are few domestic animals, and we have not seen fish in the water.  There are little low lands, valleys or meadows.  You see the scenery, however, it is not very accessible unless you are on a hiking trail. These of course are very weather dependant.  You essentially drive through, and around rocks, rocks and more rocks.

It is very natural, almost like an untouched ancient land, at the same time barren and quiet – too quiet without the wildlife or birdsong.  When the weather is not conducive to sightseeing or hiking, there is nothing else to do, or anywhere to go unless you have money to burn.  I am very aware that if we had fine weather, then I may be feeling quite different.  I probably would be overwhelmed with the beauty that is around every corner.   

Lofoten does not give you the feeling it is a hospitable place for humans to live, to be fair, a lot of northern Norway is like that. As mentioned it is mainly mountainous, and has a climate that does not support varied habitation. Only the very adapted and tough flora, fauna and humans make their home here. It is as they say ‘nature’, a special place to appreciate and visit.

We would recommend this special place to enjoy a unique landscape, however, not for the Northern lights.  The weather patterns coming off the sea do not make good conditions for the Aurora season, and you don’t have the same options of driving somewhere with better conditions as you have in Tromsø. 

Lofoten is a hiker’s paradise – in summer. The other seasons are just too changeable and potentially dangerous. Also, if you are into drone photography it is ‘the’ place to come.  For us oldies, perhaps a cruise that includes a couple of stops could be good, or I would simply recommend a season where you have more chance of good weather.  

Yes, autumn is beautiful, and for some a white winter view may also be lovely (for me I think too boring just white and water). And finally, I would not buy into the romance of a ‘rorbruer’ – fisherman’s hut (unless you are wealthy).  Go for a self catering, camping, or camper van holiday and enjoy the majestic scenery. Camper-vans are disadvantageous on the narrow road though.

We are very happy to have come, however, feel that if we had not booked the Northern train trip after this, we would have bailed and gone on to another place after 3 days due to the weather literally taking the shine off the potential of the lovely Islands.

Dinner was a salad mix from a pay for weight selection, lovely big sausages cooked at home, par baked French sticks, Mango IPA and left overs. Vern particularly enjoyed the leftover reindeer stroganoff on the crunchy baguette with sun dried tomato pesto.