Friday 11 October

The rain was there as predicted, so we are hoping that the forecast would also be correct and it clear by evening. We enjoyed a lovely breakfast again, this time I just majored on seafood and found some smoked roe paste that I missed yesterday. I am so happy with the Norwegian seafood diet which is in my DNA. Vern opted for the English style.

The sauna is the only other room on our top floor, so we committed to trying it out as we have never had one before. I got instructions from our son as he is fond of them and we tested it. The temperature was at 110 degrees and we lasted about 5 minutes as it felt as though our insides were burning and hair frizzling up like a match had struck under it.

We turned it off and I went on the rowing machine for 5 minutes whilst it cooled down. Vern got in again before I did and probably lasted a further 5 minutes, and then I lasted about 5 minutes also. We enjoyed most the smell of the timbered room and lightly fragranced water combining Norwegian timber and forest scents.

The experience of a body moist with sweat was familiar to me – I get those several times a night with menopause! So for me it was not a wow experience, Vern reports he felt ok. We shall work on it again, and see if we can find a sweet spot temperature.

We took another little stroll around to town to get a small container for snacks and relaxed until dinner before heading out on our first opportunity to experience the Northern lights. We headed for Grotfjord, about 36km away. It sounds close, however due to the roads it takes about 50 minutes to drive that far. Add to that the walk to the underground parking station to the car which takes about 10 minutes.

A brief digression, Tromso is promoted as the Paris of the North, and also one of the best places to view the Northern lights. First point, I have no idea where the parallel to Paris is? It does not remind us of Paris in any shape or form whatsoever. Secondly, viewing the aurora. Ideally you do not want ‘light noise’ and Tromso is a very well lit city of about 70,000 people. There is certainly too much light pollution in the city. Thirdly, all the best areas for viewing ‘close by’ are at least 50 minutes drive away. I think there is a bit of clever marketing going on. To be fair, Tromsø it is the closest centre to stay in if you wish a base to go and view the lights from.

We were 7 km from Grotfjord, up on a hill range and I said to Vern that I thought I could see a glow in the sky and to pull over when he could. Initially he discounted my theory, however obeyed on the pull over. At the spot where we parked there were several other cars, with people already outside with phones and cameras of various sizes.

I quickly took a test shot with the phone, and confirmed what I had thought. The faint light quickly grew into a spectacular green dancing light show, snaking and curling through the sky in front and over head. When we looked behind, a complimentary show had begun there.

With frenzied and fumbling hands we set up the tripod and I fired off a couple of shots. They were just black. I was despondent, wondering why my camera was not working? Then I realised I had the cap on.

Daoh! The next few shots were not in focus and I could not work out why when I was focussing on infinity as recommended by experts. Well, it is all learning as the lights were so close, I needed to adjust it to the scene and focussed on a star, then got it right. On reviewing them later, the aurora was so bright, my 10 second exposure was probably too long to achieve the desired definition, given the 1.4 aperture. You live and learn, and I am now fully hooked to try it again, all things permitting to achieve a perfect picture.

I was so excited by all of this I had not put on all my warm clothes and was getting a little chilled to put it mildly. We both were in the same situation, and took a break to get dressed in the dark in a parking lot on a high hill top! We had brought a thermos of hot chocolate and some nice Norwegian buns as a snack and took time to just enjoy the scene that did not stop; it waned and then would go ‘off’ again. It was simply incredible and unforgettable.

Driving home, I felt emotional to have witnessed such a brilliant and long display. Talking to locals, they said it was very rare to see them that long.

Furthermore, Vern and I feel so very blessed, grateful and happy to have experienced a long held bucket list item. Nature is not guaranteed, any more than best laid plans and dreams. This adventure-holiday has been so very rewarding on many levels and will keep on giving in our memories and lives in the future.