Monday 7 October

Today was our last full day in Normandy to explore so we commenced the cider trail route. For us it was more about the scenery than going to a cider or calvados producer. The former we have ensured we have sampled each day, along with the cheeses so there was no need to go to excess. On our agenda were the villages of Cambremer, Beuvron-en-Auge (one of the most beautiful villages in France), Bonnebosq, and potentially Les Jardins du Pays d’Auge.

First drive through was Bonnebosq which actually was not that impressive at all, so we did not stop, it had some Calvados and cider cellars though. Less than 10km down the road was Cambremer, where we stopped for a Quick Look hoping to have a cuppa, however the clock had struck 12:00 so all the shops shut for their two hour lunch time closure. Great.

Signs for the gardens indicated down the road, so we drove a few hundred meters, parked near the cafe sign and set to explore. The place was pretty much deserted and the cafe closed, however, there was a small apple orchard and some buildings in amongst landscaped gardens so we went for a little walk. The trees had name tags on them, and the month that the fruit is harvested-ripens. I was surprised to find that some were in season with September and October ripening and there was a fair bit of fruit on the ground and for a couple of varieties on the tree.

The inner forager is alive and well within us, and we both were munching on apples walking in different directions! There was a very pretty white fleshed one that blushed strong rose when you bit into it – very sleeping beauty. The plain looking Coxes Orange had the superior flavour, and there was another French variety that had huge apples currently ripening. I filled my pockets with a couple to go, and we left the small gardens for the next town, somewhat underwhelmed for what was reported to be highly recommended.

Three hundred metres down the road I spotted a sign for “les Jardins du Pays d’Auge” which elicited a quick stop the car Vern, turn left. “Are you sure?” “Yes, the sign says so”. Up a long tree lined drive we arrived at the well signposted car park and entry. In our defence, the other signs in town showed a cafe and the previous stop was at a cafe and mentioned Jardins…. We had a good laugh and decided to go in. The cost was 9euro each and was worth it.

We enjoyed some of the best gardens we have had the pleasure of visiting for about 1.5hours, delighting at every new section. I think they call this style an evolutionary garden, where you discover the 29 different feature gardens within the one large 3 acres – none really visible from the other.

The brief history of the gardens is that a couple bought a farmhouse in the early 1990’s and restored it to live in. They had the opportunity to buy some vacant 3 acres next door – covered in brambles and had the vision to create a special Normandy garden, including bringing other genuine un-used Normandy historic farm buildings to help with the story telling. They hired a renowned landscaper to design and oversea the project. I think we actually saw the owners – one on the ticket stand, the other doing garden work, probably in their late 60’s early 70’s.

I am at a bit of a loss to describe how enjoyable and beautiful the gardens are. The use of structure, light, foliage, water features, sculpture and more was sublime. The early autumn colours creating a watercolour palette of greens, golds and the beginning of reds. Hydrangeas in mass plantings of lemony lime green, contrasting with rose added a feminine opulence to the masculine woodland plantings.

One area had a ‘donkey’ house, which in fact housed a mule. The ‘donkey’ was on the other side of the paddock, so I thought I would tempt it with an apple that I had procured down the road. I made horsey snorts, noises and human talk – showing the apple and calling her over. She was very cautious, so I bit into the apple loudly and tempted her. As soon as she heard the crunch, crunch she caved in and came over.

We had a lovely time sharing the apple – bite at a time so she would not take the whole lot and run! Afterwards, she rewarded me with some little nibble kisses and then put her head through the fence for some scratches. I was super keen on horses in my youth, and owned three over time. To have that equine breath and communication is very soothing and satisfying.

Chuckling to ourselves again that we nearly got it wrong the second time on holiday we made our way to Beuvron-en-Auge. It was only another 15 minutes if that away and we were pleased to find that it was indeed very picturesque, furthermore it had a cafe still open at 4pm so we could get that much anticipated cup of coffee and snack. We were ready for the latter, having skipped lunch again due to the substantial breakfast as was now the pattern.

We shared a Poulet croque sandwich in a cute art deco styled cafe before wandering around marvelling at the almost too perfect village. I commented that it looked like a movie set, or tourist historic village set up – not a leaf was out of place. Antique lace curtains hung in dim windows, buildings ranged from timbered to brick and combinations of both. Gardens and small beds lining the road were of mixed border, cleverly planted to look as it they were there by nature and not design. Large bush fushias featured glowing red, their ballerina flowers hanging gracefully as the old buildings alongside. A title well deserved, and now we felt our experience was complete.

We got home in time to have a lovely leisurely bath and opened the last bottle of cider I had bought in Camembert on day 2, before dinner. The Pear cider was nice but not as fragrant as apple and more fizzy like a brut. The cork popped off by itself as soon as I loosened the wire!

Dining options were a little lean due to it being Monday night, so we went next door to one we had dined a previous evening and had the 3 course special. I had a fabulous 3 fish terrine with a herb and cream fraise sauce, and Vern had a liver terrine. Both very pleasant. For mains I got the largest steak we have had in France (they usually serve minute steak sized pieces) with an excellent Camembert sauce, and Vern chose Guinea fowl cooked in Calvados. Our plates had delicious fries, but overcooked beans. We cleaned the beans up but could not do justice to the fries due to the large entrees and meat portions.

Dessert was actually not enjoyable, well perhaps one which was prunes cooked in red wine Bordeaux style, but the profiteroles were not worth eating other than pinching the cream and ice cream for the prunes.

Another wonderful day, and relaxed walk home up the cobbled slope in soft light and silence, watched by the century old buildings wise and welcoming eyes.