Thursday 3 October

When we woke Vern was the first to say he felt whacked. I mirrored his feelings and also felt in need of a slow day after our very big one yesterday. I believe we were worse for wear as neither of us wore our hiking shoes yesterday, given we did not expect to walk so far.

We really notice the difference, especially on the cobble and hard pavements. Our other shoes are Sketchers, which are very good, however, when you are doing those distances and type of terrain you benefit from the best shoes you can get. Lesson learnt, I wear the hiking boots nearly all the time now, unless home for a clothing change before dinner.

The sun was out today, the best in Normandy so far. Our plan was to go to Claude Monet’s gardens in Giverny, however after a big discussion decided to give it a miss for several reasons.

Firstly lack of energy, and not wanting 1hr or more drive there and again back. It is autumn well and truely and googling photos indicate minimal colour and potential disappointment for the classic water lily pond scene etc. We didn’t get to see the art that we expected at the Louvre and were told that the local free Museum in Rouen has some good Monet and Boudin etc.

I took the time to post a blog, Vern caught up on some washing and then we headed into Rouen after lunch time for the museum, planning to stay in town for dinner and get home early. We found underground parking eventually and then chose a cafe for a cuppa and patisserie as a light snack before walking the Medieval streets to the Museum.

The cafe we chose had a noted pastry chef and it was both delicious and a wonderful experience sitting at outside typical French tables on the cobbles with the half timbered houses tall peering over us on each side, the cathedral illuminated in the distance by the sun.

We chose a sandwich, a pear creation and cheesecake. The pear was a work of art covered in white snappy chocolate and the centre with fruit creme patisserie and mousse. Nommy NOM NOM award. The cheesecake had a fresh berry coulis shot to drizzle over.

The Rouen Museum of Fine Art was a very worthwhile visit and one I would recommend. No it is not as sexy as the Louvre or anywhere near the size, however, it had a really good collection of Impressionist art. We have learnt to appreciate the use of multiple layers to create depth and capture light and shadow. You look at a painting and see one thing, then you look at it from another angle and see other elements – it is a style of art that you really need to sit and enjoy – and that we did, staying still closing time at 6pm.

We are rather enjoying Rouen as a city. There is a modern shopping part near the old town with nice squares. We have got some great ideas for Vern to replicate for me, including steel cubic arches and an adult swing. People gather early evening around bars and cafes to share a drink or several before dinner. There is a relaxed vibe, a feeling of modern but surrounded by 15 and 16th century history.

As we were walking towards a chosen restaurant we came across an Asian-French buffet that was all you could eat for 23.90 each, including a drink. We checked it out and decided it would be a good budget option. In deed I believe I ate more than our money worth in expensive seafood. It was amazing, I had sashimi salmon, fresh oysters, giant prawns, scallops, escargot for starters…. There were even frog legs they would cook fresh for you, however that is one thing I do not have any desire to try. Snails yes, frogs no. Abundance of fresh vegetables and a really good cheese and charcuterie board. Steak grilled to order (along with full array of other meats including duck and goat) also on the menu and chicken prepared at least 10 ways. We felt justified in a large dinner given we have adjusted our meals to 2.5 a day.

On reflection our so called quiet day was still just a few steps under 5km, and whilst it would have sounded more exciting to visit the gardens at Giverny, we felt that we got more out of the museum. We would still like to visit them, but that will be a day trip from Paris when we come back again in spring.