Thursday 26 September

My word the bed is so hard at the Duchy, I honestly believe the spongy moors are softer and like the elven princess I am I would rather have laid my head to rest on a mossy knoll than the torture plank again.

Moan over, breakfast was delicious again, and I enjoyed a half piece of house made toast with thick Devon butter and homemade strawberry jam, followed by the full Duchy breakfast. Another good pack down and we were on our way with a light drizzle of rain, 11 degrees and promise of some clear breaks.

By the time we travelled 10 minutes down the road as far as Merrivale, we we’re blessed with dry weather and peaks of sun, so we set up the hill from a park space hoping to find the stone circle and rows of a Bronze Age settlement. The area dates back to around 1000-2500 years ago and has burial chambers, stone rows and circles.

The hill was gently sloped however, required pacing myself. I am missing my Nordic walking poles, so put on my knee support to assist with the incline and decline. We followed animal tracks with scattered stones amongst the spongy ground. The feel of the ground was weird, as I expected the stoney hills to be hard. Instead they felt very filled with water almost like the reclaimed swamp in Netherlands, despite being on a hill. There were even puddles and little streams of water, even though the rain had not been heavy. Contented sheep grazed around us.

Once we reached the top of the hill we were rewarded with magnificent 360 degree views, of more hills beyond, many topped with Tors and on one side the inhabited valley below. We had arrived at the Bronze Age settlement. There were stone rows, stone circles, other remains, and a lovely little fast flowing stream lined with rocks running a good length of the hill top. I wondered if the rocks were there as part of the natural landscape and or assisted by man like a canal – probably the latter or combination.

We both feel exhilarated on the moors. It is a grounded natural place for us with its own rhythm. It is more than just being in the great outdoors, there is a sense of belonging and connection for both of us. We really would love to come again and do further exploring, not only in Dartmoor but other natural spaces in the UK, especially Scotland and the Lakes district – well everywhere actually.

As much as we would have like to linger and just relax and soak in the energy, we set off back down the hill just as another shower came through. Next stop was potentially Durdle door on the Jurassic coast before returning the car to Southport airport and then making our way to Portsmouth for an early night before our Ferry trip to France in the morning. About 3 hours travel all up with extra for stops and visits. We did not want to be too late into Portsmouth as we hoped to have a wee look around there and be in bed early.

The countryside around Devon is delightful and a bit more scenic than the area around coastal Cornwall. A bit more undulating and lovely valley’s and villages. Green, green and tidy farms and hamlets. Some lovely older buildings and complimentary gardens still displaying colour and form in autumn. We didn’t have time to stop much for photos, nor do the roads lend to pulling over like they do back home unfortunately. We have however committed to come back and have a good look around sometime, sooner rather than later.

We stopped at a little farm shop somewhere along the highway for a comfort stop, coffee and snack. Again I was tempted by the array of foods and ciders. You can even buy it is a box less cask – now that is my kind of juice. Coffee was rather good, and we shared a roll with hot roast beef, gravy and horseradish.

As we got near the turnoff for Durdle door we made the call to give it a miss as time was running short for a relaxed return of the car by 4pm. The detour and walk to the viewing platform would have been time pressured and added an hour at least to the main route. I was a bit disappointed as the sun was peaking out now and again and I would have like to pop across and see it as it was semi on the way. However, we have made a conscious effort not to travel from spot to spot, take photos, and tick of lists. We are wanting to slow the adventure down, and really enjoy each experience, even if it means doing and seeing less. And as mentioned, we hope to come back anyway to Devon – so will look forward to it then.

We arrived at Southampton airport safe and sound with a very grubby but undamaged car. There are very few transport options into Portsmouth about 30 minutes away, so we used an Uber which was perfect, especially with our pregnant bags.

Check in went well at the Travelodge which is just across the busy road from the International Port. We asked reception for dinner recommendations and had a wee rest and cuppa before heading out around the block for dinner at an Italian. It was really good, and authentic. Strange but the two Italian meals we have had in England have been better than the average we have had in Italy – and we have eaten a lot in Italy! I had a seafood pasta and Vern a carbonara.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped into an Aldi supermarket and got some breakfast oats in a cup that you just add hot water to. Our first non breakfast budget accommodation and early start required us to self cater. The Travelodge was really cheap – under $100GBP and whilst personality bland, has a large relatively comfortable bed, tea, coffee and hot chocolate making in room, and a shower and bath! Pretty good value and excellent location for a short stay before sailing.

Feeling happy and content and a little sad to say goodbye to England, its been every thing we hoped for and more.