Friday 20 September

St Ives and St. Michaels Mount

As mentioned the husband owner is a chef, and breakfast did not disappoint. We love B&B, especially homes that have some history. It was simply perfect to sit in the bay window above street level gazing down the tree lined street and watching the morning activities.

Unfortunately the weather forecast does not look good for then rest of the time we have in England, with the exception of today which is likely our last sunny day. So today we chose to go to St Ives, regarded as one of the most beautiful Cornwall villages, albeit a bit touristy. One of the key attractions of St Ives is that is has beautiful wide golden sand beaches, outside its breakwater.

From Penzance to St Ives the travel distance is about 20 minutes depending which route. We chose the most direct, and it introduced us to the infamous narrow lanes of England. Basically the road is one lane, and usually between hedges or trees – so there is no where to go. When you meet someone coming the other way, one of you has to stop, potentially reverse to a small passing bay and allow the other to pass. It is a bit like an adult form of chicken. For the pleasure everyone waves thank you. Working out who is going to do what is interesting….It is rather stressful, but all part of the experience.

Whilst the weather was lovely and unseasonably warm for September hitting 23 degrees with minimal breeze, we were there for low tide so did not see the lovely blue water in the harbour inside the sea wall. However, we were able to go for a decent stroll across the sand and wade in the sea.

All the villages are traditional, with narrow lanes not created for vehicles. With limited vehicle access you have to park outside – normally at the top of the cliff and walk down (and up again). Some buses run from the further car parks. We were fortunate to find one fairly close to town, so paid the horrible fees and set out to discover our first Cornish seaside town.

The buildings are mainly white, often very small and the stone streets wind seductively down the slope towards the harbour. It was very busy with people despite it being shoulder season. There are lots of eateries and tempting shops from pottery, to art and homewares.

Key local foods are ice cream, cream teas, pasties and crab sandwiches, the later an average of 10GBP each (too much for me to part with for a sambo). Lots of fresh fish available, and dining ranging from the not so cheap entry level to the very expensive.

After a pleasant stroll around the town, on top of the sea wall, and across the golden sands we selected a place to have a cream tea and pastie. It was nice, but not amazing and we felt we had ticked that touristic item off.

We still had some time to explore on the way home so took a detour to St. Michaels mount, which is just around the bay from Penzance, also clearly visible from various viewpoints in Penzance. Originally a 12th century church and castle, it was bought by a family in the 1800’s and they still live there today. You have to pay to visit, however, it is free to walk up the causeway which was our mission for the day. We have been to the one in France and didn’t feel the fee was worth the limited time we had left to visit for the day.

Again there are quite a few tourists around, average age us and older and….. dogs, dogs, dogs, everywhere. Seriously the English are nuts about their dogs. Most shops and venues cater for them, including water bowls everywhere, and doggy ice cream at every human ice cream vendor. The thing is that they seem to take the dogs out, its not about a human outing but a canine child outing. Strollers, back and front packs or on the lead! Even the dogs seem to relish going out and socialising.

The stroll up the path to the foot of the mount was pleasant in the afternoon warmth, even if it was a bit hazy. The little village where it is situation is called Marazion and is typical of the area with old pubs and stone buildings. They have them decorated with wonderful colourful hanging baskets even this late is the season putting on a magnificent and inviting display. It was time for a cup of tea and a pee, so we went inside said inviting pub and shared a cream tea. One of the waiters had Tourette’s and would shout out ‘you can ring my bell’ frequently and little bits of song.

I have great respect for neurodiversity and didn’t want to pay too much attention but it was hard to keep a straight face due to the words and melodies coming out. Awesome that the business was an inclusive employer.

Around Marazion there is a wide sweeping bay with a good long sandy beach, I believe it is the Celtic sea that surrounds. Quite a pleasant area that I imagine is very popular in the summer time.

Back home at the Pendennis we rested a bit, before walking down to the promenade and having fish and chips with salt and vinegar and mushy peas and gravy. It was ok, but not the best we have had as the cod had been frozen. Vern had haddock that was fresh and that was far better.

Certainly a big busy day in the warmth with a lot covered. We are slowly unwinding and enjoying the Cornwall experience.