Day 34 Thursday 19 September

Our alarm was set early for a full and carefully planned day, fitting in the monument cemetery and not missing our plane.  We made the decision to get a cab to the cemetery to save time, and depending how we went time wise, we would get a metro back.  We also carefully double checked our flight check-in time, factored in the 45 minute train trip to the airport, and the frequencies of the airport express, and the time to get back to our hotel to pick our bags up and then walk back to central to go to the airport. 

Breakfast was very forgettable – which is typically Italian,  so I gave my tummy a break and ate lightly.  It was very basic, although to be fair they did have a good quality brioche type croissant, instead of a horrible supermarket prepared soggy offering that is often presented, and two good cakes.  Despite the reasonable looking cakes, I cant bring myself to eat them at breakfast past a nibble taste – its against my genetics.

The cab driver that reception ordered for us picked us up within 4 minutes in a nice modern car and spoke very good English. When we showed him on the map where we wanted to go, he commented on how lovely it was, and how he always visits a cemetery when he travels.  We had a lovely conversation with him all the way, noting other ones to visit in the future that he recommended like Genoa, and Hamburg.

The Cemetery Monumentale (Cimitero Monumentale) encompasses 62 acres and is one of the two largest cemeteries in Milan, and is noted for the abundance of artistic tombs and monuments.  It was designed by architect Carlo Maciachini (1818-1899) and consolidated a number of small cemeteries that used to be scattered around the city into a single location.  Officially opened in 1866, it has since then grown  and includes a wide range of contemporary and classical sculptures, greek temples, elaborate obelisks and other original works.  Many of the tombs belong to wealthier families who have commissioned artists to commemorate and celebrate their loved ones (Wikipedia). 

Contrary to what some may think, it is not a depressing place to visit, rather a beautiful and peaceful place where you feel the love of human kind and reflect on the the joy and thankfulness for the life, loved ones and blessings we have in the now – which is very temporary and can of course change in an instant.  The art in the sculptures was as enjoyable as some museum pieces we have seen!

Our much anticipated visit did not disappoint; we spent around 2 hours enjoying the beautiful art and manicured grounds.  We started to wonder and imagine the lives of the very important and wealthy folk that were interned here; the mind boggling at the size and cost of some of the Monument-crypts. Whilst some of the statues were of sadness showing  grief, love and loss, the place did not have a sad feel;  just a very nice peaceful place, like a great neighbourhood!

Due to our great planning, we had time to take the metro and fit in a quick trip to the Duomo.  I had hoped to do that last night, but we did not have time. We visited it in 2017, walked inside, under, and on top and it was a real highlight.  The one blur on the experience was that I couldn’t get a good front on picture – partly due to the crowds, strong light, and lens. I  hoped to resolve that this time.

There is a metro right outside the cemetery, and as we as we had ridden the Milan metro before, we confidently headed underground and bought a 90 minute one sector ticket for €2. Two changes later popped up at the Duomo square.

Next bonus was that the light was softer, and the crowds a lot lighter. Accordingly, I got my shot within minutes, and after the obligatory selfie we returned underground for the 4 station short trip to Centrale.  Walking briskly back to the hotel we grabbed our bags and headed back to the station with enough time for lunch before our allotted time to catch the airport express.

In 2017, we happened across a great place to eat that served the tastiest pizza we have eaten in Italy, located right by the horrible central station square. They also made the most fabulous ice coffee.  Keen to relive the experience we sat down and asked if they could do the meal in 30 minutes.  Si Senora, and that completed our second very fond memorable experience in Milan.  

This exceptional pizza is a white one – topped with Mozzarella, cream, Gorgonzola, sausage, and saffron.  We also tried a new flavour topped with Mozarella, truffle bologna sausage (mortadella), and pistachio cream.  Very nice, but our favourite remains the first (original) one. The iced coffees were great – they put a vanilla shot in which adds to the decadence.

In justification for such a grand lunch, our budget airline, Air Portugal doesn’t serve a meal and we have two flights – first to Lisbon (3hrs) and then back up to Porto (45 minutes) arriving a little after 9pm local time.  Pre-loading was in order.

As we walked across to the train there was a bit of a disturbance – fight (with broken glass as weapons) between the squatters; the police were there in seconds sorting it out. A bit like out of a futuristic movie.

We got to the airport like clockwork, and checked in only to find that our flight was delayed 45 minutes – great. Being one of Italy’s major airports, not only is it large and quite modern – it has loads of duty free shops. This would have been great to relax and browse however they had not assigned our gate, so we didn’t want to move too far from a departure board in case there was another change and we missed the plane.

Once on board, the first leg went well, a little cramped and plastic (not like our trans Tasman or international planes) and of course no movies or little niceties. We got a floppy small wrap, cheese and crackers, and a nice wine (priorities for Europeans) Oh dear, I am totally going to have to book into rehab when I get home!  The descent over and into Lisbon was very scenic and it looks a great mix of modern and old, with lots of water from river and sea surrounds.

When we got to Lisbon they were holding our plane for us and a few other passengers, and we had to speedily get from our gate to the next – a brisk 10 minute walk.  Most people were seated, and as soon as we had fastened our seat belts we took off. The connecting flight was in a smaller plane but actually more modern and more room than the longer leg.  45 minutes later we were into Porto and working out the metro ticketing system for a long all stops, 50 minute trip to town.  It only cost €2.40 verses a taxi that would have been about €27.  Depending on your time etc. you would make a choice on which route to take. 

It was past 10pm when we emerged  from the Metro at our station – Sao Bento.  The first sights of blue tiled century old buildings in the golden street lights was like stepping back in time.  The train station next to the metro (same name) is 100 years old and one of the key sights in Porto for its gorgeous blue and white tile work.  It sits on a square – intersection point in the historic centre with tall skinny stone buildings and a church surrounding it.  

We google mapped our hotel which we chose for its close proximity and started our route.  Within minutes a man in his late 20’s early 30’s drunk and/or drugged came up asking for money.  We managed to flick him off ok, and it wasn’t long before a second person came up to us in a dimly lit area.  At the same time google was showing us to go up a steep dark back street route, so Vern made a quick decision to quit the walk and get a cab as we had seen several lined up at the station.

All good, what was meant to be a 6 minute walk only cost us €9 and we checked in to our room, quickly dumped our bags and headed out for a late snack as we hadn’t really had dinner (did the pizza 6 hours previous count as dinner?).  Our first impressions of the hotel’s location weren’t the best. The square that the hotel is on was not accurately described in the advertising material or reviews.  It is quite seedy, had a marijuana shop across the way and is home to more homeless, transient, and people affected by drug and alcohol. Not my usual area of accommodation and to be honest I didn’t feel very safe.  

I did share my concerns to reception, however she assured me it was very safe and gave us a couple of options to eat at – including a McDonalds about 5 minutes walk away down the hill, which was fine, but she advised it was a very steep walk back up.  The first option next door not only looked rubbish, but it was closing so we had no option but to brave the environment and head off into the dimly lit night to McDonalds.  

Great, I really didn’t feel that confident, but I find it difficult to sleep if I am hungry, and Vern assured me he would look after me, so off we went.  There were a few people still around and the added adrenaline did make us forget our age and tiredness as we ventured out along the dark stone  quiet streets.  Clearly we made it safely there and back; our burger and fries was not great, even by McD standards, but it did the trick. We also got hit up again by an out of it person which makes it without a doubt the seediest city area we have ever been in;  nothing like this in Naples for all its reputation. Maybe its just the area?

When we got back to our room Vern asked if I had the iPad. No. And then the horror realisation dawned on us that we left it in the cab by accident. It must have happened when we hopped in and handed it over to the other person and instead of putting it in our bag when we fastened our seatbelts, it was left on the seat momentarily. Because the trip was so short and we were tired, we didn’t  get to check or follow through on putting it away.

Darn and double darn.  It was well after midnight and all I could think of was my blogging which was up to date, but not loaded on the WordPress site – hours and weeks of work, and no way I was going to repeat it – or remember the detail.  Close to tears I couldn’t say a thing. Vern went downstairs to check in case it was left at reception but it wasn’t. 

The helpful male reception rung the cab companie and got them to put a call out to their drivers. We knew it was a white Mercedes but that’s about all.  He asked if we had another apple device and suggested we try ‘find my iPhone-iPad.  Vern relayed this to me and suggested we look in the morning after a sleep. Whilst he was having a bath I checked my phone and did some research on the ‘App’.  I clicked on it and to my delight saw it come to life – tracking our iPad which was a mere 2KM away…

To cut a dramatic story short I demanded we get dressed and go find it, whilst it still had battery and was so close. We raced downstairs, spoke with reception who got us a cab, and gave him instructions on how to help us.  Off we went and arrived at the train station cab rank where it said our iPad was.  Whilst we were driving there our cabby was on the radio to base, and the iPad started to move a short distance 2 streets away and stopped.  Our driver didn’t speak english and wasn’t getting my message to move onto the new location.  However, when we arrived at the first spot he indicated us to come with him and we hopped out and went amongst the group of cabs parked there where he began to have an animated conversation with about 6 of the drivers.

It was a crazy scene in the early hours of the morning, everything felt dark and foreign, and I felt somewhat helpless in the midst of the whole experience.  I asked around if any one spoke english whilst this was going on, and one cabbie did a little so he said. Next minute our driver is motioning us back to the cab still having animated conversations with the group of others.  The semi english speaker followed us and said to me he would help me.  Our cabby then rung base again, more conversation, then he looks numbers up on his phone, indicating to us that he had the cab number of the Mercedes!  Meanwhile the english speaking one is standing by my door and listening, then tells me that the driver has it sorted, the iPad is found, and the original driver will return it to our hotel. What a relief!

Our driver delivered us safely back to the hotel, brought our reception up to date with the news, then departed beaming and slightly embarrassed with a big hug of thanks from me.  We hung around a further 15 minutes in reception till the iPad arrived – having tracked its trip 9 km away on a ‘job’ and then back again.  Curtain closes on this drama at 2:45am, with much relief and a decision to sleep in, and bank the learning for the future.