Day 33 Wednesday 18 September

We had a good start and left Otranto somewhat wistfully on an even more perfect day than yesterday, with the harbour a mirror of blue as we viewed it from our breakfast terrace. Lili called in with a quick video chat just before we left on our royal buggy (hotel free transfer) to the car park. That was a load of fun, with me announcing to Vern that should I have mobility issues later on, I want one like that!

We made it to the airport in perfect time and without drama except two wrong exits from roundabouts in Brindisi, which only resulted in a quick turnaround.  ‘Polo’ car was returned on time and in perfect unscratched, un-dented, but quite dusty condition.  We did the ‘high five – well done’ with much relief for not just surviving, but conquering the Italian driving. I am very proud of Vernon for facing his own anxieties and doing such a great and safe job; no surprise really as he has always been a very good driver.

Brindisi is a bit industrial and smelly, and the airport a bit, how would you describe it? Simple and budget looking.  It did have an interesting display of some Roman artefacts from a wreck found in 1992 off the coast, which included many statues of notable people.  The find was rich in information about the many boats that came over during the period, and the trading and interactions that went on.

Our Alitalia flight was pretty basic; I didn’t realise the airline went bankrupt a few years ago, but the government stepped in with a bail-out to save about 11,000 jobs. To fly from this southern end to the north took 1.5 hrs, and we got served a juice, water or coffee.  The seats were really crammed in, so much so even my knees were pressing against the seat in front. 

Malpensa airport at Milan is quite a busy international airport. The the entry as with the European countries is basically walk through and get your bags – no custom control.  On the other side we bought return tickets for the train to Centrale, costing us €52 all up;  not bad for a 45 minute express train.  At Centrale we felt right at home, remembering the time we had to sprint like mad to catch a train there.  At the same time making a mental note of our timings and positions for the return tomorrow.

We have less than 24hrs in Milan and basically took the opportunity of a lay over to complete a sight seeing activity that we missed last time due to a late arrival of the train;  the driver didn’t turn up … and it took 2 hours to get a replacement. Ah, that is Italy for you.

As usual we mapped our accommodation on the iPad and stepped outside the very grand central station to the plaza where like last time we saw army and police stationed.  However,  this time it looked like ghetto central full of black immigrant people, drunks, druggies and riff raff.  Really horrible arrival for a tourist (this is the main hub for in and out of Milan) even if you have been there before and expected something like it.  There was a similar vibe last time, but nowhere near as bad or as many of the transient folk. We navigated our way on a diagonal through this desperation, wrinkling our noses at the smell of unclean bodies, urine, marijuana and stale alcohol wafts.  Ten minutes later and a few blocks east we found our Albergo- small hotel.

It was a big come down from our previous palace accommodation, but clean and fine for a stop over of one night. Additionally this is how we afford splurges;  you do some cheaper ones.  So this 2* is as close as I come to backpacking for those of you who give me stick about my accommodation choices.  We freshened up and headed out for dinner, choosing Osteria Fara, where we ate last time, which was only a mere 12 minute walk away.

Photo – Corner near our accommodation – typical era buildings

We were pleased to find it was nowhere near as busy as previously so we got to sit right down in the quiet inside section.  Of note too was the cooler climate change from south to north, albeit still a pleasant warm evening of around 23 degrees.  This Osteria serves you a complimentary Prosecco at the start of your meal, focaccia, and bruschetta, and a generous limoncello at the close (might have been the reason or the return visit).    All of that without loading the prices of the a la carte items.

As previously the meal was very good – especially their take on carbonara which includes saffron.  They also make their own focaccia, in full view of the patrons which is delicious. I had a purple prawn salad, Vern the carbonara, and then we both then shared a veal Osso Bucco with saffron risotto. Vern ordered me a glass of red with our meal which I really didn’t need.  It was the largest I have had on holiday, and at €4 excellent value.  It was probably not much shy of 250 mls if not a splash more.

Whilst we were dining we saw our waiter from last time and mentioned this to our waitress, showing her my blog page from last time complete with pictures of our meal. She was delighted and in gregarious Italian fashion called him , requesting he come over and see us.  We had a genuine warm conversation with him, and ended the evening in jest asking if he will be here in 2 years time when we come back.

We both wandered joyfully and crookedly home, not taking long to fall asleep in our small, firm but spongey bed.