Day 32 Tuesday 17 September

Today was a totally luxurious relax and laid back time, not something we normally do as we blitz through an action and adventure packed itinerary in Europe.  There is usually so much to see and do that we maximise the time and value of a big and costly trip to the other side of the world and save ‘relax’ holidays for the weekend at home and Australasian and Pacific holidays.  More recently we discovered cruising and that is the ultimate relax and recharge; that being said we are not ready to give up our land based adventures.

So today we enjoyed our breakfast, completed washing that needed to be done and dry before heading north tomorrow, and hit the road to the beach north of Otranto near the Alimini lakes; a short and easy 15 minute drive.  I had done a bit of research and narrowed our first visit to a place called the ”Bay of Turks”.  Google got us close, and indicated that we needed to walk through a bit of natural vegetation to get right to the beach.  As we got near to the green belt we saw a lot of cars parked 600m before where Google said to go, so we pulled over and parked, deciding to walk the rest of the way.  Bad move, as when we set got to the end of the road part – there was actually a nice little park in the shade, albeit fairly full and we may not have got a park.  Ah well, the exercise does us no harm – with our total walk each way to the beach ending up about 4KM.

The view when we emerged from the little ‘bush’ walk was stunning, and a suitable reward for our brisk walk in the warm and humid day.  It looked just the spot to settle in and dive right in – literally.  Bay of Turks is a series of small bays and we were fortunate to have just enough sand area for the light crowds, to not feel too crowded. These little beaches are framed by a perfect triple coloured gem like sea ranging from pale emerald green to opal turquoise finishing with Ceylon sapphire. Perfectly delicious and manatee worthy.

We spent about an hour just floating about and swimming in the perfectly clear and calm water.  I did several manatees – giggling inside to myself in childlike pleasure of being in such a perfect place and state.  This is my nirvana.  It was so lovely we jointly decided not to visit any other beaches afterwards as we a/ didn’t think they looked any better and that we had in our opinion arrived at the best and b/ we didn’t want to loose or taint the memory of what we just experienced;  it was perfect and it was enough.

Instead, we drove past the lake which was not anything too special and headed home for lunch. By the time we meandered back and had a quick shower it was nearly 3pm – just shows how time flies when you are kicking back with a total disregard to time watching and schedules. This left us limited options for lunch so we tried a ‘fish bar’ called “Sofish” that we had seen previously on the main shopping street around the corner from our hotel in old town. 

Yippee! Otranto has finally redeemed itself with food. We had a really great lunch with Vern having a fancy fish burger with crispy grouper on a lovely bun, and I had a massive octopus and prawn salad that I couldn’t quite complete. On the side I ordered as an extra treat a raw purple prawn and scampi both a delicacy from the area.  It might have actually been the best sashimi I have had; they were very sweet, fresh and perfectly chilled.

Whilst we were having lunch Casey video called in – always a highlight when the kids call! Because it was pretty noisey we called him back from the hotel once we had finished. He was on his way to Thailand for a quick break in between drilling stints. So with lots of parental cautions we bid him a great and safe trip, and set off for the next two items on our agenda, the Duomo and a little old church called San Pietro. San Pietro was of interest as it has the oldest and best preserved Frescoes in Southern Italy.

Despite my previous blog about being a bit churched out, we both really enjoyed visiting these two. The Duomo is right next to our hotel so that was easy!  Consecrated in 1088 it is quite understated from the outside, with its most striking detail being an ornate Renaissance rose window. We went in the side entrance which takes you down to a beautiful arched old church at underground level.  It had beautiful stone symmetrical pillars and a few faded fresco.  

From this church you go up the stairs to the Duomo; along the way we passed a very old baptistry carved into the rock

and as our eyes went upwards we were delighted by a beautiful painted patterned 17th century Moorish ceiling.

 

The Duomo has an incredible mosaic floor depicting the tree of life through a mix of bible stories, including the journey from sin to salvation, combining both mythology and religious representations.

The ceiling had three different sections, the two decoratively recessed Moorish and a third painted scene. 

A side chapel presented a slightly gross surprise of a grimacing display of 800 martyrs remains.  These are the remnants of men, women and children who were martyred by a Turkish invasion.  A very different Duomo indeed without all the glitzy icons, Mary, or Saintly icons and statues; this felt very medieval and contemplative.

Saint Peitro is a truely medieval tiny 9th century (consecrated 968) one room (Greek cross style) church in the middle of a network of the old lanes with nothing fancy or glamorous in its exterior or interior design – simply adorned stone alter with a few wooden benches.

What it does have is the century old remains of colourful wall to ceiling frescos, which must have been rather joyful and bright it it’s full glory days.

The oldest Byzantine fresco depicts Jesus washing the disciples feet and the Last Supper. Above the central alter arch there are large kufic calligraphy / Arab paintings. I was the only one there at the time, until a guardian came in to quietly observe at the back.  It was so peaceful and humble and a lovely experience from many perspectives.

It was about 6pm by the time we had finished our religious – art touring so we walked past the restaurant I had wanted to go to the other night (that was booked out), and managed to secure a table.  I had seen it in our wandering and watched the chefs at work through a side lane window, observing the care and handling of the food; it passed my test criteria, so we felt it worth a go.  

To fill in time we took a sunset swim to complete our Otranto stay; now we have enjoyed its water from the inside as well as the gorgeous views. I have to confess it was a bit cool, but following Verns bravery did get under and swim a bit.

There was only time for a brief rest, aperitif (working on the free mini bar usage) and shower before our dinner slot at 8:00.  We used this time to start our pre-pack and preparations for tomorrow. It was with relief to note that when we turned up at the restaurant to see they were booked out. As we were being seated another couple lining up got a bit grumpy at the staff saying they were there first – but to their embarrassment were firmly told we had a reservation and the restaurant was fully booked.  Over the course of the evening many were turned away.

Dinner ended up being the crowning pleasure to a memorable day with the best lobster dish I have ever had. Recommended by the waitress, the lobster must have been lightly fried first, then steamed in some very good fish stock before adding some cherry tomato, parsley, butter and olive oil, accompanied by large pasta. Nomy nom nom. A real intense and beautifully balanced flavour, combined with juicy not over cooked lobster.  Vern had a lasagne and we both got to make it to dessert this time, having a jar dessert each; me, chocolate and mascarpone layered with chocolate biscuit type crumb, and Vern a berry type cheesecake.  I also enjoyed a nice Puglia white to complement my crustacean.

What a nice time we have had in Otranto!  A slowing down of pace, and crystal clear warm waters to splash around in.  I think we could have easily done a couple more days here. Vern particularly loves it with its sea side situation.  It is clean and a bit more upmarket than the other towns we have visited and somehow airier.  We would recommend this town, perhaps flying into Brindisi if you wanted a lovely sea – beachy holiday.  It is along way to come, but if you live in Europe or the UK it could be an economical option.  For Kiwis and Aussies perhaps not a special trip as we have more beautiful and interesting places closer to home; albeit if like us, you have done a lot of the other places in Italy and are keen to discover the south, this would be a good spot.  

Additionally, and quite important final tip;  don’t bother in peek Summer as the place is packed out. According to reviews you cant get beach space or anything else (it is a very popular destination with Italians too). Come when we did in late summer early autumn as it was plenty plenty warm enough and nowhere near the crowds.

When planning this trip we wanted to slow it down from previous ones and do, see, and move around less. We have done all the big ticket items on previous trips and knew this one would not have the wow factor or moments of the them.  This trip has been about a deeper exploration into the country side and the lesser touristed spots.  We have seen new countries, and corners of countries we have visited before. Whilst we are not blown away as one is with the prime destinations, we are still having a great time and making wonderfull memories.