Day 21 Thursday 5 September

Breakfast was great, which was some compensation for the rock bed. Italian breakfasts do not usually have eggs – maybe a boiled one, but we had quiche today – two types, fresh small plum tomatoes, nice salami, cheese and scrambled eggs with bacon and some smoked or charred mozzarella which were actually horrid. Lots of nice breads, pastry and cakes, fresh peaches and plums and more. We took a slow start and then headed out in the 32 degree day to find a SIM card.

I honestly was apprehensive to leave the calm and order of the hotel. But with encouragement and a positive attitude from Vern we bravely stepped outside into the bright sun and noisey street. There were workmen around our little square and cars crammed in to every space which weren’t there last night on our arrival. Our plan was to get a SIM card and then visit the Archaeological museum where all the antiquities from Pompei and Herculean are housed.

We turned right down the street and took in the scene. Aged and unkempt 4 storey high buildings some abandoned, others with washing hanging out tiny balconies. A very old church that didn’t look like it was used anymore and was waiting for demolition. Graffiti everywhere, rubbish in the narrow streets. Narrow sidewalks and dark grey stone streets, long blocks of the same. We continued on a bit and passed a fruit and vege shop with fragrant smells of peaches and nectarines, reminding us we had some in our back pack (taken from breakfast).

We then paused at a local small very well stocked supermarket with two checkout operators dressed up to the nines with generous cleavage displayed and even more generous eye lashes supporting glitter adorned lids. Amongst the curious yet friendly gazes we made our first purchase of a couple of waters and enjoyed all the local banter and excitement of the locals. Children crying and winging, parents chastising, couples arguing, others in animated conversation on mobile phones or with other shoppers. Yes we are in Italy. Chow.

The first big challenge (other than leaving the sanctity of the hotel) was to cross the road and make it to Vodaphone in one piece. There are some pedestrian crossings but very few lights. So we had to work out the rules – which is best done by observing locals. So the pedestrian rules are a bit like the road rules – cut a path when you feel like it and where you feel like it. The traffic will either stop or just slow down and drive around you. How people do not get run over is beyond me. So we waited for someone to cross and quickly joined them in their shadow hoping they would get hit before us. Sometimes, they would flag and wave and or yell something at a too speedy a person coming at them – so I think pedestrians have a right of way.

About 15 minutes later following our map and the directions and advice from reception we arrived at Vodafone and we are connected with 20GB no problem (€20), we then made our way free style up lanes and narrow residential streets in the direction of the archaeological museum.

It feels on the one hand a little bit dodgy walking around in the home of the mafia because its so rough looking, however in reality we never had any cause to fear. We also have not been pick pocketed in this notorious city or mugged. RS encourages you to get over the fear and experience the real sense of community and kindness in Naples and we must say we got it. The people are actually really amicable and live for their little communities and families. Life is cramped in the accommodation, so they live their lives on the street – especially in the evening when the sun dips and the lights and lovers come out. Young people three abreast a scooter, mobiles glued to ears (yes even the drivers) laughing and having fun. Couples canoodling and singles looking for love. And everyone eating pizza. This is the one city where there are more locals than tourists, mmmm we must be brave or mad.

Continuing to the museum, it was getting really hot so we were doing the shady side of the street walk and thankful that our sim would be live in an hour as the maps are not great detail for the numerous streets and lanes, and also in Italy roads change name half way through for no apparent reason – to us. We passed some young locals eating some nice looking pizza so we stopped at the spot where they had come from and ended up sitting down in a shaded lane and eating in. We wanted to try the famous fried pizza which is a dough with small amount of filling folded over and fried. It looks very impressive and whilst we enjoyed it, it did not blow us away or get a nomy nom nom award. A little bland perhaps – tomato, ricotta, a bit of percorino and tiny salami. Needed some fresh basil and a bit more salt … I ordered a green salad and that’s what I got – some chopped lettuce to which you add your own olive oil and vinegar. More on that in another blog. A reminder to me that if you want a mixed green salad you have to order insalata. Then you will get a slice of cucumber and tomato…. no dressing.

Tick, first Naples pizza and a fried one. Naples of course is the home of pizza so we are hoping to sample some good ones. Italian style has very little topping like we are used to at home, so I soon loose my appetite for ‘bread’ with a smear of tomato and a garnish of flavour to differentiate. I don’t think I would make a good Italian, as I just don’t have that love of the same type of dough.

The Archaeological museum houses one of the worlds greatest collection of ancient art. Along with the antiquities from the buried cities, there is a secret room (R18) at the museum that houses the erotic art of Pompeii. Back then it was not deemed as pornography as the penis – and a very large one – was a sign of fertility, wealth and success, therefore it was not unusual to have big phallic statues at the entry of your home, used as good luck charms or featuring in frescoes, paintings or sculptures. They were often combined with gods, who came and visited the humans. A few key pieces were on loan to other museums around the world so it was a shame not to see them. Next to this room was a fabulous section of mosaic which I adore and admire the detail, colour and skill.

A highlight of the museum are artefacts front the ‘House of the Faun’, in particular the huge mosaic of the battle of Alexander (2nd century bc.) which was found nearly intact.

We spent a couple of hours here going through the rooms and lucky I had the iPad as well as my camera as I ran out of room on my 64gb card – probably taking too much video. No problem, as I have another in my room. The museum also has other house contents, statues and art which now firmly in our mind will add a lot of colour and depth to our visit to Pompeii tomorrow. Additional to the Pompeii and Herculaneum collections there is the Farnese collection from Rome of huge statues. Impressive ones such as ‘Toro Farnese’ telling a Greek myth was damaged and Michael Angelo was one of the sculptors that worked on its repair. He did the head of the woman on the back, the dog, and the torso of the aunt under the bull. Also the 10ft tall Hercules tired after a mission, a beautiful woman draped in an almost sheer dress and Atlas.

The one negative of the museum is that it is not air conditioned which meant we were sweltering and dehydrated by the time we left – wet with sweat and our litre of water gone (as well as the 750ml bought at lunch). I had to resort to my little fan that I carry (found on my last holiday) just to get through. We checked the temperature and it was 32 with 70% humidity.

We headed back home with a quick stop for coffee and Sicilian ricotta pastry. On the way we kind of got a little lost going around in a circle as google was struggling with the lanes, but a nice young lady asked us if we wanted help and we were soon home to a nice shower and air conditioned room. I took the opportunity to go online to buy a ticket to Matera for Saturday and was delighted to find the 2 for 1 special on first class tickets, so we are set all for €38 for a 3hr journey no stops.

For dinner we took a recommendation from reception (and our taxi driver) and went to a pizza place just across the road and down a few metres. We shared one half and half pizza and a typical entree salad of tomato and mozzarella.

Both were nice, the dough here is a little chewy but soft – not crispy like other regions, however as mentioned earlier the topping is scant and my anchovy one barely had any flavour. Plus side, eating is very cheap – €20 for dinner including two drinks – similar for lunch.