Day 16 Sunday 1 September

Gee we are loving this hotel and comparatively speaking for this hemisphere it is very good value at $290 NZD per night. I think I got a special at the time, however given the price includes breakfast and supper, this is very good value. For example our snack of a hot dog today cost us NZD20.

The breakfast has to be one of the most upmarket buffets we have had the pleasure of dining at. All breads, jams, chocolates and juices are hand pressed and made. There is a trend here for the hotels to make their own chocolate ‘bark’ (which I secured some in a napkin for later), and the salmon x 2 types was cured in house. Basically everything they did themselves bar lay the eggs.

So running through the menu there were smoothies and health juice shots galore, a decent cheese selection from France including a blue type and yummy pungent goat and on the side for the cheese some cinnamon honey toasted walnuts. There were cakes, pastries, breads, chia pudding, prosciutto whole and freshly sliced, the salmon section, fruit of course all beautifully prepared and a mini dinner for the cooked section which included omelettes, hot liver pate the usual eggs and crispy bacon, different sausages, loads of vegetables including very tasty potatoes, and Reindeer slices with vegetables. So this time I really got to try it and despite their smelly live odour the meat is more delicate than beef. Like a cross between pork and beef and not at all like venison – which is fine by me. The chefs work away behind the food tables so you can see it all being hygienically freshly prepared and topped up.

Despite the lovely feast Vern went very moderately as he ate too much nice bread last night at dinner so I followed suit and left not feeling like a Christmas turkey. The plan is to go harder tomorrow so we can food load before leaving this sanctuary and having to fend for ourselves with the NOK. I will do a sub for lunch as well I think.

Our first visit today was the Viking ship museum which is on an island close to the bottom of town. We used our 24hr transport card to tram down to the harbour – with one change at central to a bus, and then had to buy tickets for the ferry – about NZD9 each. Whilst it was raining first thing this morning and forecast for showers all day – the rain had stopped by the time we finished breakfast and the sun was playing peekaboos for the rest of the day. The museum was a pleasant brisk 10 minute hike up a gentle hill through a neighbourhood a bit like Devonport on steroids. One driveway had an classic MG, 2 x BMW and an electric Lexus. Yes, really.

The museum was not as gobsmacking as the Vasa by any means, but it was still enjoyable looking at the three Viking ships dating from the 9th and 10th centuries, a short movie, carriages, sleds and a few other artefacts. The intricacy of their carving is beautiful and the shape of the boats so elegant. Seeing them in person gave us an appreciation of their craftsmanship, seamanship and bravery – considering how far and wide they travelled – and potentially the size of the seas and weather conditions at times.

Vern has done a great job today working out all the different travel routes and changes and it wasn’t long before we arrived at our next stop; Vigeland Park. This is where Norway’s greatest sculpture Gustav Vigeland’s work is displayed. From 1924 to his death in 1943 he worked on site at the park designing 192 bronze and granite statue groupings – 600 figures in all – each being nude and unique. Gustav even planned the landscaping of the beautiful park which is Oslo’s largest. It is free to enter an open 24 hours, with lighting at night.

The sculptures follow a theme of Gustav’s observations on the bittersweet cycle of life in general. He covers ageing, love, interactions with nature, struggles, joys and sadness, birth and death.

The monolith is the centrepiece surrounded by 36 groups of granite statues and continues the theme of the circle of life. The figures are hunched and clearly earthbound, while they explore a lifetime of human relationships. At the center 121 figures carved out of a single block of stone rocket skyward.

Three stone carvers worked daily 14 years , cutting Vigeland’s full sized plaster model into the final 180-ton, 50 ft tall erection. Covered with bodies it seems to pick up speed as it spirals skyward. Some people seem to naturally rise. Others struggle not to fall. Some help others (taken from RS book).

We spent a couple of enjoyable hours wandering around and enjoying the bursts of sunshine and the art. It fascinates me that something made out of solid material like granite can display emotion and evoke a story. I also got this feeling with the stone statues at Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. I personally do not get offended by the nudity, but see it as a levelling thing – we are all the same underneath – yet unique. Clothes are a cover, window dressing or personality to what we all have in common physically (underneath). Funnily enough I said to Vern it was like walking around a naturalist park – where I felt out of place clothed! Don’t worry, I kept clothed but did feel it was unfair to the statues who seemed very alive.

After the park we headed back to central and explored a bit of the town area that we hadn’t yet seen including the big city hall with its interesting art work. Built in 1931 it is not as glittery or grand as Stockholm’s, instead is lined with paintings done in 1950 by prominent artists to the theme of work, play and civil administration. It has no tower but still an important piece of architecture and art.

In contrast there is a modern futuristic build happening by central station near the waterfront which is the most interesting bit of modern architecture we have seen so far on holiday. Heading back home partially on foot, we passed through the high street with is flower filled displays amongst classic 19th century buildings.

We used our tram tickets to do a dummy run and confirm where we have to pick up the car tomorrow which is always a good idea as it wasn’t as clear as we had thought – albeit a short two stops up the road. Afterwards we enjoyed a quiet supper of pork in a light cream sauce, potatoes, cabbage and Swede with a side of salad (free) at the hotel before bedding down for the last time in our sumptuous big soft bed.

Oslo has a great vibe in general and has been a pleasant surprise. The service and environment at the hotel has been superb, and the people in general are very happy and helpful. So whilst us country folk have had a nice time and could happily camp here a while, we are also really looking forward to heading into the fjord country tomorrow having been in cities since we left home!