D11 Tuesday 27August

After breakfast we had to pack and check out before heading out to the Seaplane Museum. This was not on our original agenda and only something we learnt of here. It is well reviewed and interests Vern, so here is an example of our flexibility to the ‘plan’. So our new ‘plan’ for today was to walk or taxi the 2 km to the museum, and then taxi or walk to the shopping mall to pick up our laundry at 2pm and buy a picnic lunch and relax before heading to the port to catch our overnight ferry to Sweden.

As it happens we walked all the way – as we need to compensate for all this wonderful food intake. Todays talley of steps was just shy of 18,000. I don’t think that would cover what I ate actually – but at least we are taking every opportunity to walk. This includes our rule on a boat – not lifts – always the stairs (except with bags).

The walk to the museum was a surprise and bonus highlight. The sun was fully out and warm – 23 degrees and rising. When we got to the harbour edge there was thick sea fog right to the waters edge where it became an eery curtain. We have another little ritual and that is to get our webbed feet into as many different seas and waters of the world so we took of our shoes and paused a while to enjoy this experience. Despite the general murky khaki green of the Baltic, the water a the shore was a little bit clear revealing many lovely coloured rocks, some bright terracotta orange, others white, orange and pink marbled and some blacks amongst the grey.

I found a nice orange marbled one to add to my rock collection. We dallied here a while as it was so peaceful and we love being in the water and having a feeling of space. There was a swimmer doing exercise in the flat sea and we could hear the regular warning of fog horns from ships somewhere beyond our vision.

Our journey continued along the misty sea shore past the edge of an foreboding brick abandoned prison from the communist era. A big spray painted sign proclaimed “communism is a prison” and it was a sobering feeling walking past the boarded and broken windows like hollow eyes staring at the barbed wire, reflecting on our own privileged upbringing and lives.

The museum is in an old seaplane building built in 1916. It was a masterpiece of engineering for its era, being highly innovative and experimental with several domes built in a manner that had not been done before. The top of the domes are only 8cm thick and the bottom 15cm concrete. It was renovated in 2009 and now houses many interactive exhibits, an Estonian submarine built in the UK in 1936 (you can go inside), traditional boats, bout, weapons and more. Whilst we were there an exhibition called “Sex and the Sea” was on, and it was very interesting and well done. Outside you can see an icebreaker from 1915, only recently retired and restored and some other military craft.

We enjoyed a couple of hours there before meandering back to town and buying our picnic lunch. It took ages for us to choose as we were just as bewildered this visit by the array of food available. Laundry beautifully clean, pressed and folded along side, we sat in the park and enjoyed a late lunch. A final stroll back up into old town, up the hill to our hotel and ordered a taxi to take us to the port.

We were able to board at 4:30 and once again we got that rush of excitement like we were off on a cruise. Victoria 1 is even bigger than Mega star and kitted with berths, casino, theatre, disco’s pubs, and dining options, plus of course a sauna. We had a first class cabin and bought a meal package which included dinner, breakfast and a voucher giving us a half price tap beer or cider in a bar.

After our hot sweaty day, we settled into our modern and comfortable room on the top deck. Its just down the hall from the Captains quarters and has a double bed, large port hole and cleaver little writing desk, plus a wet room with a very good shower. I am also impressed with the lighting so was able to sit later on and write at the mini desk, whilst Vernon snored in the bed.

We had a quick shower and got ready for our seated dinner at 5:30 in the Grand Buffet dining room. I will let the photo do the talking on my dinner but suffice to say the seafood selection was amazing. Never have I seen so much herring – from pomegranate marinade, to fried, Caesar dressed to name a few. Three different types of caviar complete with sour cream and onions, and salmon several ways. Once I had got through my mermaid food I sampled Elk ham with smoked forest mushroom salad, and cold smoked duck breast with pear and blue cheese. I didn’t do dessert as no room for that, but I might have done a takeaway of chocolate bark with nuts and dried fruits and lovely hand made chocolates with creamy ganache fillings for ‘Ron’ (later on).

The buffet was quite busy made up of Asians dominating the seafood table, and lots of mature Europeans. We are resisting the fact that we probably are not far behind them, as we are not ready to be that age yet. We see struggles with mobility and energy informing the level of activities and adventures that can be undertaken. Therefore remain in determinedly in denial to get the most mileage out of our rapidly ageing bodies.

After dinner we saw the sun was starting to sink low and colour up the dusky sky with some pink warmth so we shot up on deck to watch the sun set. This was the climax on top of the already lovely experience as we were rewarded with one of the most beautiful sun sets I have had the pleasure of.

It was simply magic and mesmerising – even more special as you cant buy or manufacture such glory and perfection. We were watching it in silent unison with a few other guests on the top deck; like some ancient worshipers nothing was said, each in their own rapture and thoughts as we watched the sun slipping slowly into the west. The colours turned from golds to rich orange, with the brilliance of the sun creating a golden staircase across the sea, inviting the ship to glide towards her. In the final moments as the sun sunk below the horizon it flourished a bright pinky red before disappearing.

Feeling naturally high and almost breathless we reluctantly went downstairs to redeem our drinks vouchers and had a super delicious Pear cider from Estonia starting with H? So good, and not too sweet at all. Ahh, a lovely end to the evening indeed, thinking why does this have to end so quickly?