Day 9 – Sunday 25 August

The Raddison certainly is comfortable – and we are enjoying it so much we would love to just stay a while and rest in comfort and in a place that feels way more cultured and civilised than Russia. Whilst very similar peoples – historically the border has shifted a bit, and there have been wars and occupations – there are clear differences and Finland feels a lot more familiar and comfortable. A qualification here, it’s not that we didn’t enjoy Russia – its just different and easier in Helsinki.

A busy day today and we began it with a very nice upmarket breakfast staring with a tart multivitamin lingon berry juice shot. As anticipated and expected there was good coffee, nice breads and quality and varied fish selection. Vern had a good hot buffet and I enjoyed fresh waffles with cherry conserve after my mermaid first course of herrings and salmon.

We bought a day ticket for €8 and caught the recommended #3 tram loop around the city which we could hop off and walk a block to see the Silbelious monument. Silbelious was a famous composer and this sculpture is a memorial and quite a piece of art. We got a little lost but asked a passer by who happily explained it to us. Most Finnish speak good English which is another reason why it feels easier here. Whilst he was showing Vern on the map he asked me to hold his dog which was the most beautiful Borzoi. I have never patted one before and was surprised at how soft its wheaten locks were. There were many dogs out and about with their owners on this lovely sunny Sunday, including an adorable chocolate poodle on the tram the same size as our Bella. It made us miss our Booboo a bit, but we know from updates she is being spoilt rotten and not missing us a bit.

The day was lovely and warm probably about 23 degrees, we are so so lucky with the weather as the forecast before we left home was for rain nearly every day. We really enjoyed just walking and discovering; Helsinki is generally very clean and modern and there are more flowers about in residential and town areas than in the Russian cities. There is definitely a greater sense of pride and care. The monument itself is rather striking and clever with silver etched pipes and a large face of the composer on the side. Helsinki and much of Finland is rocky and they use this to their advantage. There is a famous rock church but we did not have time to see it.

After the monument we got back on the tram and made our way back to town for another change and to the markets. We took a slightly wrong tram but it was quite ok in the end as we just hopped off and followed our nose and found that we were close to the large Lutheran Cathedral, which is really close to the markets. A quick stop there – and up some incredibly steep steps to view the interior. After the highly decorated Orthodox churches it was very stark and empty with virtually no decoration inside.

Unfortunately we had very little time at the markets because we needed to get to the Ferry. There were lots of interesting items and a great food selection, the markets are especially famous for the grilled salmon and potatoes. Due to our lack of time and to be honest – still full tummy’s from breakfast, we just grabbed a couple of good continental hot dogs with a bratwurst and a Finnish smoked bockwurst type (€4 each) on the run, and headed back up the slight hill through the city to our hotel. It was a hot and brisk 15 minute hike under a little stress as we had planned to use our day tickets to get a tram to the port. We were cutting it too fine, so once we got our bags we thought it prudent to take a taxi instead.

As it was Sunday there was not a lot of traffic around and the taxi was nice and cheap only 14 Euro, verses the 20-25 reception advised us it could be. As we got near we saw the other famous statue of “Boy pissing” which was funny and a lot larger than I thought. It was too far walking distance from the actual port, so I missed getting a photo. Basically its about as tall as a house, looks a little like an alien and has water coming out of you know where by the title. The port is very modern and nice and again check in went smoothly. We got all excited when we saw the big Ferry – bigger than we thought as well – like a mini cruise ship – well not that mini. She is called Megastar.

These transits give us a buzz as much as going to the destination and we book them deliberately to enjoy – having little splurges to make the most of the experience. Our tickets were €96 for the both of us for comfort class lounge, which is like a business class ticket. For this we got a special lounge high up and at the front of the ship, and free tea, coffee and soft drinks, plus a small snack buffet with nice breads, cheeses and ham, crudités and dip, lollies and chip type snacks and cookies. We had a modest and healthy snack, got a beer and a vodka and enjoyed the 2 hour cruise in comfort and style. It reminded us a bit of going on a cruise last year – both of us love being at sea.

On arrival we got approached by a taxi driver for a fare – we asked how much to old town and he said about €16, OK we recalled that Rick Steve’s book said about €5-7, and also remembered getting ripped off a bit from an unofficial driver in Bari in 2013. No thanks, we went a little further to the left to an official taxi on a rank, and it only cost us 7. We are staying right in the centre of town at a small hotel called the Merchants House. It dates back to the 1300 and 1500 – spanning two buildings. We are nicely on the ground floor at the back by a courtyard which is great. These old places are very atmospheric but do not have lifts, and also we are away from the lively street noise of nearby restaurants and a beer hall type restaurant!

After a settle in and freshen up from our warm and busy morning in Helsinki we headed out a little away front the main touristic square, to a street the locals eat at. We couldn’t get into the first place we wanted but next door was a vegan place that had an interesting and affordable menu. It turned out to be a fabulous choice and we will return tomorrow it was that good and cheap!

Entree of smoked salmon and caviar (totally vegan, not fish) with wakame salad, cucumber ribbons and tarragon mayo. My goodness it was simply delicious. Lightly pickled beetroot ravioli and cashew creme – yum. Then a bbq soy burger with crispy onion and a truffle mayo – Devine. Tasted like burger fuel pattie including the texture! And Jackfruit, beetroot, and chickpea balls with smokey onion sauce and herb hummus. Really amazing meal, so much work, so much taste and nutrition and did I mention cheap? With two drinks it cost €37. Dessert looked great but we simply had no room. Darn it – well that’s why we have to go back again…

Rhubarb is special here – including a flavoured wine with Rhubarb which I very much enjoyed the sparkling light pink bubbles. Vern had a Rhubarb lemonade and a local beer and enjoyed those flavours too. The beer is not as good as some other Euro countries, but still nice and refreshing.

First impressions of this beautifully preserved medieval town is that we did a good thing booking two nights instead of one as many do. Such a contrast to the last two destinations and yet another wonderful lot of discovery to be had. There is something special about wandering slowly around these old streets, over the worn uneven cobbles under the watchful eye of century old wise medieval buildings guided by the soft golden glow of wrought iron lamps. Completing our evening as we turned the corner to our street we bid goodnight to the musician sitting on the old well, playing his guitar accented by the tall cathedral spire behind.