Today was about about relaxing if you call climbing a mountain, eating, blogging, swimming and eating some more relaxing. Our apartment is ridiculously noisy and last night was Saturday night in full swing. It is also quite warm despite outside not being overly hot – so we tried one of the windows open but even with ear plugs we were woken a few times till we gave up and shut the window – that was at 5am! It doesn’t get dark here till 10pm, and the Spaniards come to life about 8pm and start later in the day.
So we had a slightly later start and a little sleep in before heading out at a leisurely pace to climb the small mountain (or really a big hill) at one end of San Sebastián above old town. It is quite historic having been a fort for Napoleon and others and the site of the main castle. On top of the castle ruins is a big statue of Jesus overlooking the town. There are lovely paved walking tracks which wind around the hill gently or you can take a quicker option of stairs and steep paths that zig zag straight up. We took the quick option because we didn’t want to have a late lunch, which would lead to a late dinner.
It was a pleasant shaded walk up, and we only needed to stop a few times to get our breath. By the time we reached the top I was glowing and we had finished a big water bottle but of course the views were worth it. In the remaining ruins of the castle is a museum with movies and displays on the history of San Sebastián and entry is free. From inside that you can access the viewing platform under the statue of the sacred heart.
After taking our photos and the obligatory selfie we descended to old town and sought out our lunch time tapa. Just as we got there we saw a procession of very important people coming out of the church – most in full military regalia and very well groomed women along side. There was navy, army and another colour – but I am not sure if Spain have an air force? One group were in a very dark blue black and had the oddest shaped shiny plastic looking caps – hats like a star wars helmet. I have just googled that and it is the Spanish Civil Guard hat called a tricorne. The uniforms looked very ornate and smart and the procession had attracted quite a crown of locals and tourists. San Sebastián is the place the Spanish royals used to holiday due to its climate and there is a nice palace and gardens here – but we haven’t wanted to do much sight seeing so have not visited it.
We have pretty much sniffed out the best places already so went back to them in absence of finding anything better. It is quite acceptable to walk in to a place and view the display and walk out if you are not tempted. I had another of the local whites which is quite easy to drink – quite low alcohol (either that or my stamina in that regard has increased). I have developed a habit of having a wine with meals – will be an adjustment when I get back home! And we also enjoyed another Foie – its just too hard to pass up!
Next on the agenda was a shop for some special jamon and cheese for a continental breakfast tomorrow but to our great disappointment we found the supermarkets were closed all day. Gutted – and the shops too; I was going to do some gift shopping but that was clearly not going to happen. So we returned home and Vernon did house work, we sorted our arrangements for tomorrow, video chatted with Lili regarding our meeting up and accommodation arrangements tomorrow in Amsterdam, and I blogged a bit before we took advantage of the gorgeous weather and hit the La Perla beach across the road. You can see from the photos up on the hill that there were loads of beach goers – by 5pm when we went down there would have been literally thousands of people! I didn’t take a camera as we were advised it is not safe to leave items unattended on the beach.
A brief mention on the weather – today was the pick of the bunch just reaching 30 degrees which is perfect beach weather. The weather here is quite unusual; as described to us and experienced it can be cloudy when you get up and then an hour or so later it can be sunny, then rain then sunny again or sun and cloud. Kind or 4 seasons in a day, but whilst you get the weather rolling through its not cold – staying a mild 23-25 degrees. Today was one of those days where it was blue skies all the way through.
The water of the Atlantic (or Celtic Sea, in Atlantic ocean to be precise – and San Sebastian is in the Bay of Biscay) is a lovely clear greeny-blue and was a little cool to start, but nice once under. It was so calm and flat it was like swimming in a lake or pool. We enjoyed going out a fair way and swimming doing the manatee and generally rolling around having fun. So now we have ticked off another lovely sea to swim in – wonderful. After showering and getting ready we went out for our last meal in San Sebastián which was kind of sad as we are having a ball here. The food is just amazing, the atmosphere crazy but fun for eating and the rest of the time it is like a relaxed sea side town – not unlike what you may experience in smaller towns in England or up on the Normandy or Brittany coast of France. It is kind of friendly – for Spain – we have made friends with the neighbors which is a mum, a nan, and a adult son who has some challenges but is cute and friendly. We cant speak each other’s language but there are always smiles and pleasantries as we pass each other in the foyer where I sit to use the internet.
The streets of the ‘new’ town are wide, clean, tidy and tree lined and there is a positive, safe, relaxed vibe. In our wandering we have tried to work out how to describe San Sebastián- what it feels like. It doesn’t feel ‘Spanish’ as other places have, rather it is more cosmopolitan. I wonder if that is due to its history of being under both French and English rule at various periods? It feels and looks affluent but still maintains a casual beach side feel – which is nice. As previously mentioned it is clean, green, and more temperate than other areas of France and Spain at the same latitude. Overall we would recommend it as a unique place to sample the home of genuine tapas and relax. It may not offer the big ticket tourist attractions of other places, but that is what makes it a nice change. For us it has been very timely and totally worth it for the dining experience.
There was another lovely sunset tonight and whilst I had wanted to go out and do some night photography I thought I would feel better ploughing on doing another blog and trying to catch my tail – I can see light at the end of the tunnel! I am determined to be up to date before I get home. On that note, Vern is snoring, its just past 11pm and my Limoncello is finished so I will also retire. Big day tomorrow; off to Amsterdam and meeting up with the kids again.
Travels with Valrock 