Our host kindly allowed us a late check out of 10:30, and we needed to be at the train station by 11:00 so that meant we could still fit in some sight seeing before we left and did not have to store our luggage anywhere. Last night we all prepared for a quick final pack in the morning and an early breakfast so we could race back to St. Marks square and go up the bell tower for an panoramic view, and be at the front of the line to view St Marks Basilica. Hugo prepared a continental style breakfast of meat and cheese (the later he brought from France) and we boosted out on time to get to the square by 8:30.
It was beautiful weaving along the lanes in the cool without loads of other tourists and I know I am repeating myself but that familiar feeling of wishing we had more time here all together was resting heavy on me. Being here, and doing this is such absolute perfection for me and Vern; its a pity we cannot afford to do it long term or longer. Mind you I figure we are not alone on that one. We also miss Casey – our son and wish our family could be complete over here and he could experience this too. There is also our grandson but in all honesty these sorts of trips are not suitable for children his age – its too hard, too much and probably too jolly boring for them.
Our timing was bang on and we got into the bell tower within about 5 minutes. I really like this bell tower as it has a lift all the way to the top! We were enjoying the view when the big bells went off – nearly jumped out of my skin. I can assure you they are pretty loud close up. The view up the top is wonderfully panoramic and you get a great perspective of Venice top down, from its size, layout and position in the lagoon and the lovely red roof tops simply looking so quintessential renaissance Italian.
The clock was ticking so we went down and lined up for the Basilica which opened in 10 minutes. A good line had formed but we weren’t too worried as there is a 10 minute viewing limit and we would have been in the second rotation. As we were lined up we saw a small sign that said that all back packs must be checked in – so as to not loose our place in the line which was steadily decreasing Vern opted to do the bags to let the rest of us in. We had both visited in 2013, albeit I was keen to do it again as it is one of my favorite churches, I also wanted to see Lili and Hugo’s faces as they experienced it so see if they got the same thrill and wonder that I did – and they did.
St Marks is defined by its amazing small tile mosaics depicting biblical scenes. Gold is used extensively and even in the dimly lit old church it sparkles and catches the light giving a heavenly glow. Light beams were streaming through from the central dome illuminating the different shades of reds and greens of the marble pillars and the larger mosaic marble patterns on the floor which are like a series of different pieces of art and styles, clashing brilliantly. You are not allowed to take photos inside but I snuck one little shot from hip level. Lili managed a few others but I am not sure how they came out. When I was here in 2013 I was allowed a few shots, so will try and resurrect some of them (no pun intended). Suffice to say, it is one of those iconic tourist destinations to visit and I would do it again given the opportunity – its just stunning with a wonderful spiritual atmosphere.
Straight after our 10 minutes we had to return quickly home and check out. We did pretty well to squeeze that all in, and amidst hugs and byes till Amsterdam we went separate ways. Lili and Hugo were flying out to Barcelona later in the afternoon and had a couple of hours to relax before catching their vaporetto. We made it to the station and hit a block when we could no longer buy tickets for our train to Florence – they had closed it off and we had to get the next one which was in an hour. Gutted as I was going to pre-book the other night – had the Trenitalia site up but then got distracted and thought we should leave it in case we needed flexibility with our departure time. The price was also a bit more hefty – but that’s what you pay for with ‘flexi’.
It was already sweaty hot – 32 degrees so we found a spot at an airconditioned cafe in the shade at the station and had a light lunch. Ironically they served very good vegan food and including the fried polenta and meatballs that Hugo and Lili had been wanting to try. We found in Barcelona that the train station sometimes has very good food – and so it was here. The price was reasonable so we got a vegan spinach pizza with tofu (very nice actually) and a nice rustic ham and salad roll for Vern. The waitress recommended a cake which had a Nutella filling and that was unusual and a good experience. It was light, and a cross between a bread and a cake – I think olive oil based rather than butter. It was like a chewy ciabatta but not salty or sweet. A couple of similar age to us sat down next to us and Vern (as he cant help himself sometimes) struck up a conversation with them. They were really nice and from Idaho and the husband ex military. Amongst many other interesting things Vern found out he was based in Christchurch as part of the team that manned McMurdoe base (Antarctica), and had a classic bike the same model (CBX 1000) that Vern is lusting after – small world when you meet people with similar interests and views. They also had a life experience that motivated them to travel and retire early. The husband was watching Time Square New Year celebrations on TV, and then walked back down the hall to bed only to find his wife had collapsed dead in the hall way. (The current lady was number two wife). He thought then that life was too short to waste and left work to pursue other interests such as buying classic plane, restoring it and flying it around and traveling as much as they could.
We had a comfortable and cool trip to Florence on a fast train taking only about 1.5hrs. Our room at a B&B was less than 5 minutes from the station but we had such a job finding it. Eventually I asked a shop person and he pointed us in the right direction. The google map was not quite right – but within a 100m of the building. I was looking for some sort of hotel front but what we had booked was a apartment, within an apartment block that had been converted into a small B&B. This was a new one for us – and perhaps had I known it I may not have booked it. It was very highly rated on tripadvisor, very cheap (that must have been a sign) and has a great location of less than 5 minutes walking distance from the train, and for the airport bus. So despite its outside appearance it was a good choice.
Inside it is beautifully and decorated and set up. The furnishings are comfortable and modern and although the rooms are very compact, they are configured nicely and include airconditioning which is a must in this constant mid 30’s heat. The owner is not there at night so its self entry and self service to coffee, juice or teas – complete with fresh homemade biscotti and cakes. You can help yourself to the basic breakfast food too, and a carafe of sherry liquor drink. In Florence they dip the biscotti into the sherry type of wine for an after dinner snack. I think this freedom and generosity goes a long way to the good reviews, verses the street front label or facade of a hotel?
We settled in, showered and refreshed and then head out pausing at a few shops for window shopping and potential gifts and then had an earlyish dinner at a recommended place from our host. The restaurant was not airconditioned and the service very unfriendly to say the least, and totally not in line with our previous Italian experiences. We had hoped to enjoy a regional dish or two and this place was recommended for this, with a modern twist. I got a half bottle of local wine which was ok, but the Chianti was a bit rough for my liking. We shared a hot pate on toast – not exactly the foie gras we are used to but rustic and tasty. Vern chose a pork chop (to my initial disapproval) and when it came out it was huge and actually very good. This was in direct comparison to my local pasta dish of macaroni noodles with spicey pork belly which was the worst dish I have had in Italy for value for money – I got noodles with a few strips of bacon and some chili flakes. Boom – 13 euro. I queried if it was the right dish and told yes – belly is like bacon. BS. Ah well you live and learn and I have always been aware that some tripadvisor reviewers don’t know what good food is. We shared a cheesecake for dessert albeit reluctantly as I didn’t want to give them any more money after the poor value pasta but it was very nice, served in a jar and made with a fresh soft farmers cheese. The resataurant was not airconditioned – cant figure why not as there were units up above, so it was also hot and unpleasant eating there.
The wander home is always interesting through the narrow inner city streets and there were heaps of people still out and about dining at 10:30. When we got back home we discovered our aircon was stuck on 26 degrees which initially felt cooler than the outside temp, but is really too warm for real comfort. Nothing we could do till the morning so we just enjoyed the comfort of the nice bed, which would have been even better if it was a king – but again you cant have everything at a budget price can you? There was a ranch slider to a small balcony but the outside temperature was higher and the noise also would not have been of benefit to our sleeping. We are looking forward to a slower start in the morning and a bit of shopping before our walking tour. We are not looking forward to it being 36 degrees though!
Travels with Valrock 