It was a bit cloudy despite the forecast of good weather in the morning and rain in the afternoon. We headed down for our free breakfasts and were faced with a pig trough of badly behaved screaming and winging spoilt brats, dopey incompetent and over indulgetn parents of Asian ethnicity. We were one of three Europeans at breakfast and it the mess and crowding chaos was so bad I had to ask a waiter for a cloth and offered to clear and clean a table just so we could sit down – in a nice way as they were swamped and doing their best. Having sorted that, we sat next to a lovely young German girl and had a great chat before a simple bagel with cold cuts, cheese, toms, cucumber, onion and herb quark. I had hoped they would serve some lovely alpine Appenzerler cheese but it was just Emmental, a type of Gruyere, and Brie. Might have to hunt that out in the Dolomites?
When we got upstairs we saw KC was on line so we had a nice Skype with him on the good internet. As an Accor member we get benefits such as upgrades, better wifi, and welcome drinks. Our plan for the day was to have a look around at the old town, lake and main tourist attractions of covered bridges and lion monument. We pin pointed the two best rated ‘cheap eats’ for our lunch and dinner, one was a fresh pasta place the other a Vietnamese-Thai. Cheap eats here mean a main course at 16-22 CHF, we are trying to just relax and take the expensive nature of Switzerland in our stride – after all its only a day and a half – however that does not mean we need to through all caution to the wind and not get a good place with relative good value.
Luzern is a nice compact modern city with an intergrated bustling old centre. It is situated on the edge of a clear blue green lake that feeds the Reuss river that runs through the middle. The river is straddled by decorative bridges including two covered ones; the Kapellbrucke (Chapel bridge 1333 – oldest covered bridge in Europe) and Spreuerbrucke (Mill bridge 1408). Both have had restoration work, and feature paintings on the inside rafters telling stories – the Spreuerbruke’s mural records the plague of 17th century and is titled ‘Dance of Death.’ Looking over the city is an imposing Mount Pilatus, and her sister further around the lake – Mount Rigi. Both these mountains and their impressive adjoining ranges have been playing hide and seek behind the misty clouds since we got here. Even though the sun has not been out much to illuminate the water to turquoise jewel status, the clouds and showers have created a grey blue tone, highlighting cloud formations, creating water colour tones and shapes on the ranges, and casting an oily almost violet grey tinge to the water.
To us Luzern has a slightly clinical feel – clean but lacking a wee bit in warmth of character. Staff we have encountered and other one on one interactions are very friendly and nice – great service and so good at English. It is not as hard work as in France, but we are always the one to initiate the ‘friendliness’ – so it’s a response, not an invitiation! The city reminds me a little of a cross between some parts of Munich, Paris, and Salzburg – Austria. There are some old exposed timbered buildings, tall older apartments and a few paintings on buildings Bavarian style. Colourful spring flower displays are plentiful, but unfortunately I have started to sneeze and get snuffly again so have put myself back on my herbal medication.
The Lion monument was a short walk – les than 5 minutes away. It is a memorial to the Swiss guards that died in the French Revolution and was carved in 1820-21. The photos I had seen did not prepare me for how big it is, or how beautiful. It is carved into a natural rock wall, with a small water pool in front. Apparently Mark Twain described it as “the most mournful and moving piece of stone work in the world.” We also felt its special nature. There were quite a few tourists there and not long after I took my photo a group of Asian men – one a singer, one a director with a boom box and one with camera started to film a music video clip. The singer was dancing modern semi rap style and lip syncing – it really was uncomfortable and insensitive to everyone else but thankfully it wasn’t long before a male Swiss tour guide came along and told them to move along in no uncertain terms and voiced his displeasure at their actions at this sacred memorial to the dead. The ‘crew’ just stepped aside and hung around – I think they were going to resume as soon as he had left. Shameful and ignorant behavior. Whilst we were contemplating and waiting – sitting on a bench next to another European couple who were from the States we engaged in some conversation and then the wife dared her husband to dance – bomb the video (whilst she filmed that on her phone), and we encouraged it. The husband would have been our age and up he went and did it – that was prior to the tour guide. It was a humorous attempt at getting them to stop as others were there trying to enjoy the peace and sanctity. They of course didnt stop but did experience what it was like to have their ‘experience’ disturbed.
We enjoyed our wander around, taking a slower pace for a change and not cramming as much in or being as bombarded with a kaleidoscope of sights, smells, sounds or experiences. Down at the lake we saw a cute ginger type of duck with an orange beak and chicks of the black birds with the white bands on their noses which have red and purple on their half bald heads! The other bird with orange/brown on and a frilled collar that I saw in the Netherlands have chicks that are large and nearly as big as them, but still downy and a very different colour – pale grey with stripes and spots around the head like tattooing.
Our first cheap eat was about 2km or 20 minute walk from home, although we had added on a few more steps along the way via the lake. It was a hole in the wall place which make their own pasta and the efficient and friendly staff recommended a mixed plate of ravioli with sage butter, and the special of the day oriccietti (small ear shaped pasta) and bolognese sauce. I had a Luzern beer to wash it down and Vern had a coffee. It turned out to be the best ravioli dish I have ever had – each flavour was distinct and perfectly balanced and cooked. The sage butter allowed the ravioli to be the hero and it was pure nom nom. The bolognese was ok – nice and light but I reckon I do better …. the little orcciette were tasty though.
It was about 3.30pm by the time we had our leisurely lunch so we headed home via old town to have a brief rest and blog before heading out fairly early at 6:30pm to walk a little further to the other cheap eat. It was also a hole in the wall place with very limited seating but there was space on a four seater, where there was just one person dining. We asked if he minded company and he cheerful indicated to be his guest. Happens he is a golf person (caddy perhaps?) from the Dominican Republic who has lived here for 10 years, prior to that a decent amount of time in Canada and USA. He was a frequent customer of the place and spoke very highly of the little street eat style cafe – adding tips for a good economical time in Luzern and shaking his head at the expenses and taxes of living here. Even though I am not the most social person, I share Verns enjoyment of meeting new people on our trips and learning interesting things about them, and places.
Our dinner was as good as the tripadvisor reviews and our new dining friend’s praises – big portions, fresh and tasty. We shared a vegetable spring roll, steamed peppery pork bao (bun), excellent chicken satay sticks and a chicken and basil main. We were very nicely full for 38 CHF. Lunch was 42 :-). Both combined better than last nights slightly upmarket meal.
When we got back home we needed to use our free welcome drink vouchers in the hotel lounge. At the bar we were asked what size drink we would like and I went for large and Vern chose a small – I ended up with a hefty pint (600ml) and he about 330ml – oh we’ll never mind, I rose to the occasion as being a tourist is hard thirsty work. Back in our room we got a surprise skype call with Lili and Hugo at the other end. It was wonderful to hear their excitement as they relayed their experiences so far. Before retiring I took advantage of the awesome internet and managed to get a great lot of photos up and a big blog completed to help towards my catching up.
Travels with Valrock 