I woke up early and full of anticipation for better weather to see the mountains and do our planned activities. Opening the curtains it certainly looked hopeful with a blue sky, white clouds and some ranges in sight. We went down to breakfast and other than one table we were the only Europeans – it was full of Chinese who had cleaned out the place, made a mess and when you tried to help yourself they would push in front – really awful travelers. Breakfast wasn’t that fabulous for a place of this price, its one redeeming selection was crepes and a hot plate so you could refresh them before adding Nutella, jams, honey or syrup. It also had crunchy pain chocolate and the raisin pastries with a little custard which were actually nice for a change from soggy cold sugary things.
We didn’t dally as we were keen to get going and make the most of our day. As we left we gave our room key to the reception manager so they could do the swap of room and then headed off to the information centre to retrieve our day pass that we purchased last night. Instead of being open at 8:30 like the website indicated they didn’t open until 9:00, so we waited on deck chairs amongst lovely flower tubs until they were open. The walk to the cable car only took a further 5 minutes.
With our passes we did not have to purchase tickets for the cable car up Aiguille du Midi (‘Needle of the middle’ – height 3,842m or 12,604ft) but there was already a queue by time we got there and it was a good half an hour wait until we got on. The car goes in two stages – you change at around 2,300m onto a second car. Both moved quite steadily and almost vertically close to sheer cliff mountain faces; the total journey is about 20 minutes which is quick for that ascent. Here is where the happy holiday story goes a bit glum – by the time we got on the first cable car the weather had closed in so we saw virtually nothing. So disappointing as the weather indicated clear with a bit of cloud up until lunch time. Sometimes when you get up really high you get above the valley cloud, but it was cotton wool white at the top too.
Photo is of the top. Edge of Mt. Blanc faintly behind right. Note the glass platform up the top left of the Midi.
I am not overly fond of heights, but do enjoy a brief look at spectacular scenery. Previous experiences of height have been in the USA at Yosemite at around 2,438m (8,000 ft) and the Schilthorn in Switzerland at 2,970m (9,744ft) . I felt both altitudes with heaviness of the chest, a slowness of movement and a little difficulty getting air – not the most pleasant feeling but bearable. On arriving at the top of the Aiguille I definitely felt a bit light headed – like I had drunk too much wine. Vern felt the same, and we just took it very slowly. I had a little moment where I thought I would have a panic attack as that feeling of hyperventilation trying to get more oxygen triggered old memories – but on holding Verns paw and taking it easy allowed the fear to subside and us to continue up some stairs – about 30 at least – from the cable car to the terraces and cafe. I would say the majority of visitors were experiencing the thin air at similar levels of severity – standing aside, taking time, doing very slow stair climbs and keeping talking to a minimum. There were of course mountain goats and snow bunnies with their walking sticks and gear – having no problem and getting ready to do some mountain trails (no thanks).
The air was freezing cold at the top, and you actually step out onto a walkway between two needle points before entering a semi covered step way, before going inside a building. I managed one photo, looked down a little and got a real vertigo feeling for which I had to collect myself for a bit. Eeeek – they actually have a glass chamber that sticks out and you can go in that (again definitely not for me thank you). The misty cloud was so thick you could not see any mountains around and whilst we had hoped to go on the panorama gondola car over to Italy from here – we didn’t see much point with zero visibilty. I was surprised it was still running, albeit they had a notice that it could close any time due to the high winds. This was to be a real highlight of our trip, but the weather was not in our flavour so it will have to be another time. Funnily enough we planned to come here and do this in 2013, but cancelled it at the last minute due to bad weather. On that trip we had some of our accommodation open to allow for that flexibility, but this time we pre booked everything due to time constraints.
So feeling a little disappointed we decided to wait it out in the cafe and see if the cloud would lift long enough to get a view around the mountain range. Slowly sipping water and having a restroom break did wonders for adjusting to the altitude, although I was not about to exert myself! Regrettably the weather was firmly cloaked around us and had added light snow to the mix, so after 30 minutes we made our way back down via cable car of course, and had lunch in town at a healthy wrap place (run by young English) before going on a trip to see Montenvers mer de glacé (a glacier) at 1913m (6,276ft), Chamonix itself is 1035m (3,395ft).
The glacier is reached by taking an historic rack rail train up the edge of the mountain range. From the station at the top you can either walk down or take a gondola and walk a further 20 minutes or 448 steps to where they tunnel an ice cave out every year. Inside the ice cave there are displays and glaciologist’ who are happy to share their knowledge. Enter second disappointment for this alpine visit – the caves shut at 3.30, and the gondola at 4:30 (this was contrary to the internet which said 5 and 6pm). It was 3:05pm when we arrived and we had spent some time in the shop looking at crystals (they find amethyst, rose quartz, and more in the ranges) and then a bathroom stop at facilities down the path near a hotel as renovations were taking place at the station – so there was no time to get to the caves. Gutted! Ah well, to get value out of our expensive passes we did the gondola ride close to the caves and then got the rack rail back to Chamonix.
The actual glacier is not that spectacular, although in a pretty valley. A lot of rubble covers it, and you do not see the blue of the river except for the ice cave mouth. The trip up to the glacier was scenic with lots of villages in the valley and the odd long snake like waterfall making its way to the valley floor. All things considered I feel the Lauterbrunnen mountain and valley are more scenic – just a personal opinion. Additionally in Switzerland there are more varied things to do and see – even if the weather is not the most conducive to mountain top vista. That being said, Chamonix is a very pretty resort town, full of lovely flowers and nestled in a narrow valley between two spectacular high mountain ranges. The lower parts of the range are wooded with pine and silver birch and when the clouds recede you see rows of jagged needle mountains like teeth from a giant – it is very unique and captivating. I can imagine how postcard perfect like it must look with some snow and on a sunny day.
Whilst on the cable car I had seen a surprising amount of small flowers on the lower mountain (where there was no snow) – quite amazing and at the glacier on the walk to the bathroom I saw more little gems such as bluebell, tiny violets and a mountain orchid. I am hoping our time in the Italian alps, and in the meadow is more successful than this – and all being well I should be able to do a Fernando the bull amongst the meadow flowers there. I also so a squirrel running along a conifer branch close up which was cute.
Back at the hotel I was looking forward to a nice bath but when we asked for our new room key we got blank looks. Long story short they had done nothing – I was about to explode and I think my expressive face gave that warning. The new reception asked me to wait a bit, and then came back with an upgrade to a suite on the 4th floor. Phew, just as well – I had not had the intended dream day – although it was still full of experiences and enjoyed.
Dinner was at a cool cheap and very cheerful pub style place we passed near the station on the way home. I spied a very good meal a diner was enjoying so that looked like the one to go back to tonight. It took only 12 minutes to walk back there and I had the best steak so far in France – and cheapest at 13.50 with fries and salad. Vern had a burger with hash brown in it, crumbed Rebuchlon cheese, onion marmalade and nice crispy bacon. Washed down with 2 Strongbow English ciders we were happy with that. They had a great DJ playing groovy music and the atmosphere was very ski resort with young fit looking clientele. The chief waiter looked like Hagrid and had the most amazing dark blonde Afro I have ever seen. His counterpart was 6ft 4 and built like Arnold Schwarzenegger with tattoos, dark hair in a pony tail and short beard! A weird and wonderful place for sure – have Skyped the kids a video of it, and encouraged them to come when they visit here next week.
Added to the atmosphere was the odd dog walking around the pub – I have forgotten to mention it so far but its cute seeing all these well socialised and behaved dogs in trains, buses, shops, hotels, out on the street with their owners. Last night at the restaurant there was an adorably uber glossy black with a white bib wavy haired dog that almost followed us out the door – it buried its nose between my knees for loves and pats – I asked the owner what it was and he said a black lab – bernease cross. Makes us miss our naughty little poodle fur baby.
Early start tomorrow for our scenic rail trips to Switzerland. A little anxious about that as weather is forecast for rain all the way – not good at all!
Travels with Valrock 