Another warm night with fan going all the time – it got reasonably cooler outside but in our little cave the air flow just didn’t happen no matter how Vern placed the fans. We are both thinking we are too old for the intrepid travel – well at the pace we are doing it anyway. I cooked a ham and cheese toastie this morning and we boiled our left over eggs for a picnic lunch later. Having booked our bus tickets last night we just had a leisurely morning packing and getting ready for our bus at 12:30. We checked ourselves out at 11:00 and wandered slowly up town browsing shops where I actually found a dress made in Paris my size on special so that got added to our gear. One of my few dresses shrunk – we think from the heat of drying on the balcony so I am short a dress, and up a new top …. I got this one in case we hit more warm weather (always a good reason to shop).
Our bus was quite flash and we got a seat up the front with great views. The trip was just over an hour long and very scenic following mostly a valley through very high hills and increasing views of jagged mountains. Lots of little settlements of Swiss looking timber houses at the foot of the hills and the appearance of brown and white Swiss breeds of cows. We passed through a few tolls on very nice roads and some short but flash modern looking tunnels. You can actually take a long tunnel through the mountains to Milan – quite an experience I imagine and one to factor into another trip.
Chamonix is another place where on arrival it is more impressive than photos or research indicated despite the dull light and the light rain falling from the sky. It is a very pretty alpine village full of older style wooden – and Swiss looking – hotels and buildings, including the southern Germanic painting on the buildings and cheerful flower boxes. On either side there are very sheer moutains, and even a glacier with jagged spikes of waves frozen in time coming down the hill like a veil. Our hotel was an easy 6 minute walk and is modern with a big bed and air conditioning.
Check in took ages as the lady was in training and when we got to our room I was somewhat disappointed in the mountain view or lack there of, especially as I had booked 5 months ago directly with the hotel and paid extra for a view room with a request for a higher floor and bath. I got neither of the later two, so rung reception and asked for it to be made right. I was told they were booked out. Not good enough, I asked for manager, who rung me back and said he would come to the room. He tried to say that due to the weather it would not matter whether we were on 7th floor or not, we would not be able to see the mountain. True I said but as I had booked direct, paid 5 months ago and requested the higher floor and bath, and view – I expected such and it was not good enough to be treated to a low floor, corner room. He acknowledged it and said he would shift us tomorrow, but could not today as he was full up. Grrrrr. Ok, we will sort tomorrow – I do not like to move again, but I do like a bath so move I shall.
We spend the rest of the afternoon sorting our plan for tomorrow – as there is the possibility of it being fine enough for going up the mountain in the morning, although more thunder in the afternoon like we are having now. You can pre book a day pass which gives a good deal on lifts, train to glacier, and access to the glacier cave so we have secured one of those.
For dinner we took as stroll through town and selected one from the short list we chose from tripadvisor reviews so we could sample typical Savoy dishes. Up here it is all about cheese, especially Raclette and the Swiss influences of fondue and potatoes. We chose a three course menu as it is only a little more than a main and either entree and dessert. To start I had a lardon, cheese and soft boiled egg salad – like a Caesar with a herb dressing and croutons – it was really good. Instead of cos lettuce they use soft butter crunch which was a nice change. Vern had the French onion soup. Mains were two typical dishes – a potato cake (Farcon) with bacon, onions and prunes with cured meats, salami and a green salad on the side, the other dish is called a Tartiflette which is potatoes, onion and bacon in cream, topped with grilled reblochon cheese, this was also served with a green salad. Both were very homely, the first ‘cake’ was more like a confused Rosti that didn’t know if it was sweet or savory but after a few bits it was unusually nice. It worked well with meats, gherkin and salad. The Tartiflette was a sinful cream potato dish that was very rich and just as well we swap dishes half way or I don’t think I could have eaten it all by myself. Both dishes would be most comforting and sustaining after a day in the mountains followed by some sort of fire water that they drink here.
Dessert was a nice blueberry compote with fresh farmers soft cheese – like a fromage blanc, and a hazelnut cake served warm with caramel and caramel icecream. I am refusing to complain about the cold wet weather, whilst I am disappointed I don’t have blue skies and views of the mountains (yet) I am feeling like a wilted flower finally put in water and able to refresh a bit after the very hectic pace and very hot weather. We still have a few weeks to go, and a cooler slower pace is welcome.
Travels with Valrock 