Our host kindly allowed us an earlier breakfast so we could enjoy a quick bite before check out in sufficient time to catch our early 9:06 train to Avignon. The train trip is only 13 minutes and from there we had a car to pick up for the next two days and our transfer to L’Isle Sur la Sorgue. As has become the norm, it was already a warm 25 degrees at 8:30 in the morning and it was lovely making our way through the quiet shaded streets, feeling like we were saying goodbye to a new friend. Adding to the relaxed happy feeling was the knowledge we had our tickets sorted and plenty of time to get to the station. I was getting the odd last photo in and then Vern goes *@##! – What? He explained he just felt the room keys in his pocket. We did not have enough time to take them back, so would just have to post them. Its not the first time a key has stayed in his pocket – we were at an Irish airport and through customs when he discovered rental car keys LOL. The nice customs man said he would take them back to the drop off box that time.
Funnily enough the smaller regional train was air conditioned – we wanted to stay on it. We have learnt here you never know if trains are airconditioned or not – no matter what the class is. Its like a lucky dip. We had decided last night that instead of going straight to L’Isle sur la Sorgue today, we would visit Pont du Gard which we did not have time to do whilst in Arles, and as a bonus for me, back track to the Camargue and go to the bird park so I could get up close and personal with some Flamingoes. Adding on to the itinerary change, we would also drop back into Arles and return the room key.
At Avignon central we had a 17 minute wait for our connection to the TGV station. The connecting train was really rough looking like some Italian regional ones we had been on. For a bigger city, and tourist destination Avignons central station was not that modern or tidy, it is hot, unconditioned and a bit rough looking with horrible old smelly toilets. Just thought you may like that tip if you come here. In contrast once we got to the TGV (fast bullet and intercity train station) it was pretty much the opposite. Whilst we were heading through we noticed a device charging station or stand that we thought was a brilliant idea. You sit on a bike sort of seat and pedal, this generates the power into your device (which you plug in) – how environmentally sound for both human (excercise) and resources. I hopped on so Vern could take a photo and a lady next to me noticed she was in the picture and tried to duck out. She smiled and made a comment in French; to which I replied, “its ok, you are world famous in NZ . This led to a conversation and revelation that they were on way there for holidays. We asked, “where”, and they replied “Whakatane!!!!! OMG what a laugh. We had a great chat before they caught their train and then we left for the Avis depot a short walk outside to pick up car.
The Avis customer service rep was a lovely young man that had spent several months in NZ, and he offered us an upgrade for a super cheap price; a new Renault Megane (only 2,000km on clock), automatic with a super duper flash GPS touch screen, keyless entry, all for 14 euro a day extra. All sorted and feeling flash we headed down the highway back to the Arles on route to the Ornithological park which was about 70km. Because we were so familiar with Arles (like old hands) we got parked at our supermarket just outside the town walls and did the 15 minute return walk to return the key. At the car park we topped up our liquids at the supermarket, got another one of those fantastic pizza slices (pissaladiere) from the neighboring baker and had quick picnic lunch in the shade. The onions he does are perfectly caramelised sweet, rich and oozing soft with glistening olive oil and the sweetness contrasting with salty anchovies and olives has got to just about be one of my favorite combinations.
I was really excited to go to the bird park as it is very well reviewed on trip advisor, saying you get close to the birds in the wild with little effort and the birds don’t mind you at all. In summary this was exactly our experience and a highlight for both of us. Storks, herons, egrets, flamingoes – and a cute as type of beaver – Coypu all within 50 meters of entry into the park, happily going about their business in a pond in front of the cafe. The beaver just swum around and over to his favorite log and started to have a good scratch and groom of his face – he (or she) looked like a comical stage performer to all the patrons on the cafe deck. The bird park is set in the Camargue national park and all the wildlife is free which is a wonderful environment to visit. They are into conservation and have facilities for rescue and rehabilitation of sick or injured birds. If the bird cannot go back to the wild they will continue to house and look after it – those are the only ones in cages for their own protection. As said – it was great and despite another 38 degree day, the excitement overtook any discomfort and my camera got a good work out.
I find flamingoes facinating – they are actually ugly birds and almost demonic with their wrinkled nose bridges and pale eyes. I have never seen this before but they stick their beaks right under the water almost up to their eyes, and sieve for food on the water bed – making quite a noisey racket and lots of bubbles. We just watched in fascination with big smiles on our faces.
Next visit was up north west a little past Nimes to Pont du Gard which is a big beautifully preserved and restored aqueduct. There is so much to say about its history and our visit that I do not have time to go into however, in a nutshell it was another highlight for us, and shares top place with a few other experiences for Vernon.
Built half way through the 1st century, it is a 3 level aqueduct, 50m high and up to 360m long and the widest arch is 24.52m wide. It was built to supply water from Uzes to Nimes, and is described as the highest Roman structure in the world. Not only is it a technological masterpiece, many consider it a work of art. Local soft limestone rock was used and various means were employed to get the huge blocks to site – whether it was bullock, floating down the river or roller systems. It is estimated 20,500 cubic meters of rock weighing approximately 50,400 tones. It delivered 30-40,000 cubic meters a day, or 400L a second. There is a very good museum there included in the price of your ticket and we could have spent a lot longer going through the exihibits but we got kicked out at closing time after about an hour which went really fast. What I learnt and marveled over the whole experience was the technical expertise they had back then.
When they decided to build an aqueduct, they did not just choose the fasted route to the destination; they used their knowledge of the topography and area to plot the most efficient route taking into consideration the levels of flow required for the water – and then set about calculating what they needed and how to build it – whether it be underground, on ground, through rocks, over rivers or canyons, or canals. All this was done in a carefuly planned manner – they discovered that blocks when precision cut by stone masons, were numbered to their exact position on the structure. It required the combined and coordinated work of architects, engineers, stonemasons, blacksmiths, loggers, lime-burners and thousands of slaves. So clever and amazing and lasting 2,000 years later. I wonder how engineers these days would approach the same task without their computer programs like CAD, google mapping, topography maps etc.? Oh and did I mention it is a beautiful structure? Gosh I could go on and on, if you are interested the Pont du Gard have a very good website.
As far as our experience other than being in awe, and very hot (except for nice museum which is airconditioned) when we arrived we headed to the river below and well, just sat in it in our summer clothes and admired the Pont du Gard – amongst quite a few others that were enjoying the cool water! Once we felt cool enough to continue we wandered up and across the elegant monument and progressed around to the museum. On route were some ancient spanish olive trees that are 1000-1100 years old – had to give them a mini hug, they are not original but planted there by the Pont du Gard as part of the interactive scenery of what the area looked like when being built.
It was about 35-40 minuted drive to L’isle sur la Sorgue and we were lucky to find a free car park about 5 minutes walk from our accommodation in the old town. We are staying in a boutique hotel restaurant owned and run by a Michelin star chef and in order to get to your accommodation, you have to walk through the flower and patron occupied cobbled courtyard to check in at the restaurant front desk. Although dining was in full swing we were very warmly greeted and bag carrying offered up the wide stone steps to our room on the 3rd floor.
Even though it was 9:30 it was not too late to have dinner (just), so we broke out the wallet and enjoyed a splurge dinner… we got a three course special for 42 and 47 euro and it was very nice – but not gastronomic orgasm as I might have expected from a Michelin rated restaurant – for example the squid ink mashed potato I had was over blitzed and a tiny bit gluggy, and the tomato gateau was underseasoned and lacked a bit of good oil – too acidic. What we did have to enjoy was a tomato – skinned and seeded layered ‘gateau’ and a foie gras and melon entree. For mains I had scallops with a kumquat vinaigrette with chorizo and squid ink mash, and Vern and a duck breast dish with a ratatouille type vegetable. Both scallops, foie gras and duck were cooked to perfection. We got a few free refreshers like a cheese sherbet and mini choux filled with soft herb cheese, cool minted creamy pea soup, and mini raspberry brownies. Desserts were classy – we chose. Strawberry mouse, raspberry smoothie and lychee sorbet dish, and a poached white peach vacherin with verbena sorbet. The peach one was amazing as you cracked open the vacherin like a shell and revealed some tricky layers and textures inside. I got my usual of a regional rose (as I cant choose between red or white) and Vern had a local beer.
It was bed shortly before midnight and we turned into pumpkins – a long and full but memorable day.
Travels with Valrock 