Our sleep in our cool room in a king size comfortable bed was very much appreciated and needed. I woke actually feeling rested and prepared to do tourist battle for another day. We got to breakfast as early as we could and enjoyed a simple but good regional selection of meats and cheeses and the usual cold offerings. There was a very good selection of breads and gourmet jams as well as pastries and biscuits – including a regional nice thin almond honey type snap. Reception ordered a taxi for us, so that was stress free and nearly 2 hours later we arrived in Arles. Our train was not super cooled but did have more airflow than yesterday which was some comfort and the day had not reached it maximum yet.
The countryside inbetween the two – more like cities – was similar to the area around Bordeaux and we passed through a number of interesting looking towns with old churches or castles in various states of repair. We quickly passed through pretty town of Narbonne and Beziers, the latter known for its 13th century cathedral and picturesque bridge. The train line also ran along the Camargue and Mediterranean for a while – which was exciting to think of the upcoming trip we hope to do. I didn’t see any of the wild live stock from the train, but lots of salt marsh and flats.
Arrived to warm day, but bearable after sitting in the semi cool, so google mapped our walk to our new lodgings which was about 10 minutes. First impressions of Arles (Arrl) is a bit rough and shabby. It is a very historic small city predating Roman occupation, as you enter the old town there are remnants of an old stone wall and then various periods of architecture ranging from renaissance, medieval and classic periods which from medieval make up the narrow streets. Rather than a restored look like Carcassonne or Sarlat, Arles has opted for an an-natural look complete with crumbling stone, patchy, peeling and faded paint and heavily aged wood looking tired, bleached and cracked (kind of like me after 2 weeks in a heat wave). The overall impression was one of lack of care verses authenticity.
It was tricky to navigate as you cant see landmarks beyond the 4 stores buildings when the streets are so narrow. By the time we got to our hotel we were sweaty – again but it was very nice to know we had airconditioning in our room for the next 4 nights. Hotel L’Ampitheatre dates to approximately 1800’s and has been very tastefully decorated but the owners in the main lobby areas. Our room is pretty simple – 2-3 star, and had it not been that it was the best reviewed in Arles, I probably would not have chosen it. We got offered a larger room than booked, if we didn’t mind the third floor with no stairs. The thought of space is nice, so we accepted that even though our tired old legs and knees did not thank us for it. The old building has lots of little nooks and crannies and uneven floors which remind you of its character and age.
We refreshed ourselves with a shower and drink of water as there are no tea or coffee making facilities at the hotel and headed out to find some lunch, book tickets for the Camargue, and orientate ourselves. It was less than 10 minutes to the information centre and we got a very helpful young English speaking attendant. She recommended the best one for the Camargue and also offered some other day trips into the Alpines (al-peens) or Lavender (La-venn -da), or a full day tour around some of the Provençal villages including lavender. We tried to do a lavender and a full day but couldn’t work that with the Camargue which was the priority, we did however get on an alpine tour which included the Van Gough Sanitarium and an old aqueduct so chose that. When researching I looked long and hard at tours but did not come up with what she had to offer – except the Camargue. The tours looked great and I wish I had been able to pre-book some as they gave a very efficient overview for the first timer over here. So bank that tip!
We also searched on line and found out our Vodaphone UK pre paid card does cover nearly all of Europe so that is a good very cheap option for Roaming verses the criminal NZ rates.
After sorting tickets for our next two days, feeling excited we looked for a supermarket but were pretty starving so had a snack of icecream local style – lavender flavour and salted caramel. Nom. We wanted a baguette or similar but we noticed flies in a couple of shops cabinets and refused to risk it. It was a pretty hot and sweaty 34 degrees at least with no airflow but we stuck to what shade we could find and continued to wander down to the river front and along and back into old town. We had marked on our map some restaurants that our host recommended for us and planned to do a walk around to check out the menus in order to make our choice. During our wanders we noticed signs for a music festival on today and were delighted when we wandered into a very old, plain, run down church to find an organ recital taking place. Previously both Vern and I have not been excited by organs, but the music coming from up above us filling the damp and musty church was amazing. I don’t have the knowledge to describe what sort of music was being played but it sounded like a dramatic musical theatre production band or orchestra in full swing. There were happy brackets, soulful, challenging and dramatic – very stirring indeed. We wished we had more time to listen longer but made our way back outside to the heat and continued.
Next pleasant interlude was a jazz band walking through the streets dressed in colorful outfits. They attracted a crown where they paused and one very happy chappy about our age or a bit more than had seen the bottom of far too many wine bottles (and probably other stimulants) who was totally into the music and on his own planet was dancing big time with some very far out moves that at times almost tangled his arms and legs to the point of stumbling. We love this street party atmosphere and admired the band for its skill and endurance in the heat.
Eventually we came full circle up by the Roman arena – amphitheater to a seafood restaurant that also served a lamb and beef dish for Vern. There I had the pleasure to eating the best seafood soup I have ever tasted – another nomedy nom nom award here. It was mixed seafood of razor clams, and type of sea snail shell, mussels, prawns, and white fish, in a creamy seafood and potato soup. As explained by the waitress I was to rub/mush a fresh garlic clove on the crostini, put on some aioli, sprinkle with cheese (a mild fresh Parmesan type) and float in soup or eat direct. Wow – this took it to another level and will keep the vampires away for a month! I actually couldn’t finish the soup it was so substantial which was disappointing to say the least! Verns lamb was very good and seasoned with Provençal herbs. For dessert Vern had a warmed ginger cake with rum and raised ice cream and a syrup made from another aromatic, and marinated peaches. (Name of restaurant to do review later – Le Criquet) I was clearly too full to have dessert but managed a tiny taste or two of Verns. Overall a very nice experience, only one tiny negative was still at 9pm it was sweaty hot just sitting there – but hey – when that’s what it is, c’est la vie (that is life).
Travels with Valrock 