We began the day with the obligatory croissant for breakfast topped with jam and fromage blanc, then we made our way outside before the oven had reached its full temperature – an expected 38 degrees. The relative cool of 25 degrees at 8:30 in the morning was refreshingly pleasant as we walked the 1.3 km to the post office and sent off our box, then made our way back through old town using a town walk from a Michelin guide book from the apartment.
There is a tremendous amount of history to this ‘town’ and I was enchanted by its scope and attractiveness . Wow! I was taking photos (poor Vernon) at what seemed every turn. In our research we chose Sarlat as it was noted as being a pretty and well preserved historic town with lovely (unique in France) golden stone buildings – and for the regional foods and nearby caves. Internet Photos were mainly of the goose statue but not much more. I was delightfully surprised at how many beautiful old buildings there were, and how nicely preserved and kept they are. As the internet is so slow everywhere I cant load as many photos as I would like, and I am unsure how I can describe the charm of the town? Firstly the stone is a particular golden colour, like the Cotswolds in England verses the usual grey stone – this honey appearance is appealing especially in the evening golden hour. I find much charm in winding narrow stone paved lanes, viewing the decorative doors, windows and stone tiled pointy roof tops reaching for the light at different angles like petals on a tulip. Coloured flower boxes, loving restoration, and wrought iron work, timber work on lintels and sofiets, pull together the past and the present as decorative enhancements by artisans.
Some key photo opportunities are statues of geese in an old town square, and the ‘Lanterne des Mortes Tower’ near one of the old cathedrals. They are unsure what the towers – of which there are only a few in the country – were used for; probably something pagan then mixed in with Christianity. Again a mystery that has everyone clicking away and shop owners tills ringing.
By the time we had finished wandering it was really warm so it was a quick stop at the supermarket for supplies and a reinvigorating cold shower as soon as we could. Lunch was very good and French – fresh baguette, local gourmet pork sausage, a cheese and lardon pastry roll, and salad. We had another cold shower after lunch – seriously – its so hot in our accommodation and outside, before heading out to the river for a cruise and a swim.
It was about 2pm a baking 38 degrees by the time we left – which is just fine on these days as its hot all day and into the night. It was not far to the river, about 20 minutes drive to the very small town of La Roque – Gageac. The cruise on a traditional gabares boat takes you on a slow scenic meander along the Dordogne to see chateaux and small towns along the side of the cliffs that line the river. We had hoped to see a second town purportedly very beautiful called Beynac – which has a castle on the top of the cliffs lining the river but the boat did not go that far – so we drove there afterwards. The trip only cost 7 euro and lasted 60 minutes – but was a little overrated – along with the ‘beauty’ of the town. Never mind, you do not know these things until you try it. We could have hired canoes or kayaks but it was just too hot. In fact when we were waiting 20 minutes for our boat to sail, we found a spot to get down to the river a little upstream, I whipped my dress off and just got in the river … was funny as my underwear was natural coloured so it looks as though I am naked from a distance. Vern just paddled quite deeply in his shorts – I tell you it was wonderful. The boats have wooden seats so there was no problem with a little drip of water here and there and we were dry in no time.
Along the cruise we saw a proper accessible swimming area, so when it was finished we drove down there and here we had time to put our swimwear on – and in we went up to the neck. You cant spend enough time in the water when there is a heat wave on! The river is beautifully clean and we had a magic time getting close to drifts of weed which were in flower. Amongst the weeds were little electric blue dragon flies and other electric green and blue dragon fly type insects which I do not know the name of and an assortment of ducks and ducklings, fish and other birds. I took my camera despite it not being waterproof and got really close – less than a metre to the wildlife. It was so peaceful, cool and just lovely being at one with nature in the water and face to face with flowers and insects – real Manatee territory. Sometimes I wonder if I am too old to be doing all of these things – but why should such pleasure be reserved for the young?
Somewhat reluctantly we moved on as we had to return the car by 6pm, we did a quick drive through Beynac which was 10 minutes away where Vern had to park at one end and I had to walk a fair distance to get a shot of the castle. This was also a bit underwhelming and very well marketed – or perhaps we are getting spoilt with some very spectacular sites under our belt? Looking down at the river I saw a large trout just happily swimming – he must have been about 3 kilo! One thing very lovely about the Dordogne is the cleanliness of the air, land and waters. Europe is certainly not all big cities, pollution and overcrowding.
Our dallying in the water made us a little late in returning the car to a huffy agent – pfff again. Just because she had a bottle of wine waiting – the French seem quite – how can I say – lazy???? They love their shops shut for two hours at lunch time and then as soon as 6pm arrives they are out the door and drinking, smoking and eating. Generally speaking – and there are pockets of exception – they do not excel in the hospitality or service aspects – you get the feeling they do only as much as they have to and not a dot more; life is for living – not working and/or for oneself – not for others.
For dinner we chose a restaurant not far up the road and recommended by our host. It was so hot again – even at 8pm we were sweating wet just sitting at our al fresco table (covered above – small fan for big area). Service was slow and the meal very average and full of faults from my perspective -meat tough, potatoes dry, limited vegetable, desserts dry. I do feel a bit for the staff in this weather – but we really can’t work out why more is not air conditioned over here. On then way back home it was just about getting dark and there were huge moths flying low around the streets – funny things! They almost looked creepy as they moved along like mini bats.
It was more cold showers and a pre-pack for our early departure in the morning. The Dordogne has been great – we could have done two more days here – and definitely with a car which was a great after thought. The key aspects are the history – right back to the cave man, and enjoying pate in the foie gras capital. The countryside is pretty, the wine from the nearby Bordeaux plentiful and pleasant and normally the climate is temperate!
Travels with Valrock 
I love that you stripped off your dress and went swimming in a French river! Living in the moment – awesome, and what a way to connect with your roots.
Yummy food, art and all the history – its so cool watching your journey. You go girl!
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Thanks little sis! Funny enough it has been a highlight!
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