I sent Vernon off this morning to do the whole breakfast – make the coffee and buy the croissants. He did a stellar job and after getting ourselves organized with a programme and an idea of direction we set off in our Renault Clio diesel for the Lascaux Information centre and museum. The GPS said it was only about 15 minutes so with mild confidence we exited the our city without incident and continued on a pleasantly scenic drive through mostly wooded country side. We even passed an outcrop of rock where up on a ledge there were old dwellings from post-cave people.
When we arrived at the GPS guided car park we realized were not at the right cave museum – there are two main ones in the area, and this particular one was a very good museum and had a genuine cave you could enter. However, they only allow about 50 through a day and pre booking is required. Bummer, but no worries we got the right cave venue punched into the GPS and off we went deep into a park like area of narrow gentle climbing wooded roads. I have been having a little bit of a flare up with my digestive system in this heat and had to get Vernon to find a side exit so I could duck off into the Woodlands and get one with nature. I am always conscious that there are snakes and other nasties here – but survived and enjoyed my venture into the wild!
When we got to the car park of the correct venue some 30 minutes later there was a group of vintage bikers just leaving. Vern got all excited as they were models he either lusted after, had owned and or generally admired! Models for other enthusiasts are listed by Vern as Kawasaki Z900, 500 triple, RD350, GT380, and 250 triple to name a few.
Lascaux is the site of a significant cave discovery that changed modern thinking in respect of man in the Paleolithic era. In a very brief summary these caves show a far more advanced and intelligent stage of man and society than previously believed before the caves discovery. The caves were discovered by a group of teenagers in 1940 when their dog fell down a shaft whilst they were out walking. There are over 2,000 images of mainly animals but including abstract designs and a few human. Animals consist of boar, bull, horses, stag and reindeer and colors used are lovely variations of red, yellow and black.
Techniques used indicate the level of skill for example they made paint from various minerals, mixed with water and or fats and swabbed or dabbed, and blew through bone to create the images. In softer stone parts they carved stencils. It is believed that lighting from candles in the caves created a strobe effect when flickering and the artists deliberately used this lighting to create a moving 3D image by painting and drawing up to 5 heads or feet graduating (on the same image but at different angles) so when the light flickered it gave the appearance of movement like a cartoon movie strip. Absolutely facintating and mind challenging!
The original caves were sealed up due to damage from exposure to the environment and humans breath etc. in 1963 and since then they have created some replica caves to give visitors an experience. Currently a new complex (pictured) and fourth replica cave was built and opened in April this year. The latest technology gives the visitor a carbon copy experience of the original – it was simply fantastic. You go through a tour and everything sets the journey and mood from the shape of the modern complex which has no straight walls, to going outside in to the hill where the real cave is, to then go lower underground to a 13 degree controlled cave replica. After the cave you pass through an interactive educational part at leisure but with staff there to provide information.
Both of us really enjoyed it, and would love to visit more of these caves – including some original ones – albeit this is the most pristine and decorative. They are still not sure of many details about it – why it was painted, how long it took, how they did ceilings and walls etc?
Whilst we were waiting for our English tour we had lunch in the cafe and tried a regional specialty – gizzard salad. Right – I am open to many things and use these giblets to make stock and then treat the dog – not something I thought would be a crowning glory on a salad with walnuts and a bit of duck breast. They were tender but still tasted like gizzard and despite being very robust I could only manage about 1/4 of the generous portion. I have no desire to eat them again. At least the French are not wasting the duck – and just using breasts, livers and legs …. Vern did try them but chose a very tasty Caesar salad with chicken instead. Wise choice lol.
When we left the venue and got back to our car at after 6pm the temperature was reading 44 degrees – OMG it is so ridiculous this heat wave. Yet another reason we enjoyed the lovely cool caves …
We drove the short distance home enjoying the green scenery which is punctuated by either hay or the most gorgeous pale golden wheat fields ready for harvest, and polished off a light dinner of more salad and our left over foie gras delicacies with a fresh baguette and more of that fragrant wine. A couple of cool showers later it was bed time – and hoping the weather forecast that said more hot weather tomorrow was wrong. We love the apartment but no air-con in a heat wave is crazy – when I booked the average temperature was about 23-25 for this time of year – so I was not concerned about aircon. Maybe with this change in climate its something to think of for future trips – new rule – must have air con.
Travels with Valrock 