Last night we reviewed our itinerary for our last two days here, and last day in the Netherlands (Monday) researched weather, and transport options for our intended places to visit. In making our plans I had factored in that the public transport links were doable, but not great and that this may be a good place to hire a car for a day being quieter and more rural. Vern has had quite some anxiety about driving on the ‘other’ side of the road but had committed to give it a go this trip. Being more off the beaten tourist track this time, it really would make it so much easier and efficient – to the point of even being able to see and do some things. So it was not a decision made lightly but we took the plunge and hired a car for two days here.
We also had a chat with Martin after breakfast to see if he knew of any private drivers, but being a public holiday weekend here, and short notice it was a much easier and cheaper option to hire a car (115 all up). We had googled to try and find a place but could not find one within 50km that did a weekend hire. Martin however, did know of one in the neighboring township and very kindly said he would take us there – after calling and making the arrangements for us. Such fantastic service from our B&B host, and he would not allow us to pay him for the service, or 15 minute drive there to pick up the car.
After quite a bit of fluffing around by the agent, we were handed the keys of our little automatic Peugeot and the moment had come. Poor Vern, looked as though he had a menopausal power surge going on, and I was doing my best to emit feelings of calm and confidence. He is a very good driver but this was totally new territory for him – and me. We buckled up and worked a plan for how I may assist him best. He would watch the road, follow a car ahead and I would speak out the GPS instructions. This would also stop me from panicking and then panicking him if I got confused about traffic on the wrong – right – side of the road. Leave that all to him. Sorted.
First stop was the Afsluitdijk causeway. It is 32km long, 90m wide, and is 7.28m above sea level. Building began in 1927 and was completed in 1932 as part of major works of the Zuidersee. Essentially it blocked off the sea at an inlet, and joined North Holland to Friesland province. This created a ‘new inland sea’ called IJsselmeer which the Dutch cleverly made fresh water. It also serves the purpose to regulate water levels if they get to high in the Netherlands, they have the ability to pump it out to the sea via discharge sluices at either end. It is a fantastic piece of engineering with careful calculations of tide and flow being just one aspect. They allow fish and eels etc. to migrate across quite successfully.
The trip there from Giethoorn took about an hour, and captain Vern did an amazing job. Our GPS navigated us well onto the very nice Dutch highways and networks. The roads are so good here, and we only made one miscalculation as I was coming to grips with the GPS, which she quickly re-routed us anyway. Pretty open countryside scenery and it was a little thrill for the country girl in me to see real Friesan cattle in Friesland. They are a bit larger than the ones back home and definitely fatter! Of course no where near the herds of cows we have here. Just like 30 in a paddock and then none for miles.
We stoppped half way along the causeway to have our picnic lunch (left over rolls, cheese and meat from breakfast) amongst others doing the same thing. The Dutch are great picnickers – in quite random places from trains to side of the road. When we got to the other side we programmed the GPS for a town called Enkhuizen on recommendation from Martin for its old town and port.
Thirty five minutes later we arrived at the town and the freedom and new found confidence on the express ways disappeared as we really didn’t know where we were heading, and there are a lot more decisions to make on which side of the road to be on when you are turning into somewhere, around a roundabout or if something is a one way. Worse still we were struck with the realization that we had no idea what the Dutch roadsigns meant – was it a one way, is it two lane, or pedestrian only? The latter we found out as we got dirty looks from pedestrians that we were in a pedestrian only zone. Oooops. REVERSE promptly. We found a car park not far from the old town (and pedestrian center) and asked someone how the meter system worked. Its like an honesty box. You buy a blue dial which is plastic enclosed, then enter the time you arrived, and display it and then you have 3 hrs free parking!
We were in need of a coffee so we set off down the old town street, which is also still the current new town – to find a coffee shop. Enkhuizen is utterly charming – a bit like Bruges, or parts of Amsterdam. Houses and churches dating around 1500-1600 fill a 2km long and several street block wide area. In the single lane Main Street gabled roofs lean precariously inwards like nosey old women reaching closer to hear some gossip from their neighbors on the other side. I just love being amongst this living history – this is Europe in a nutshell to me – so linked and living in the now with their past. We found a coffee in a grand old building complete with chandelier and large floral displays and shared an apple cake with cream. To be fair, the cake was not a patch on what either my mother, grandmother or myself can produce – but its a local thing to do.
The second destination was the port and a pleasant 10 walk through narrow cobbled streets lined with small but neat old homes with their unique window displays and the occasional cat staring wide eyed back at us enjoying the sun and view. The port was stunning and mind boggling at the same time. More grand old buildings with fancy facades provided a contrasting doily type border to 100’s of boats and sailing craft modern and vintage, pleasure boat to ketch and schooner totalling in the realm of millions. Standing proudly at the entrance was an original tower (Drommedaris) built in 1540 (still used for cultural events). Quaint houses lined an inner harbour and the sunny day and public holiday weekend throngs added to a festive and alive feeling. I managed a harring and we left somewhat reluctantly for home before the evening got too late. I would really have liked to spend more time in Enkhuizen, both wandering around and exploring and visiting the recommended Zuidersee museum. This museum has houses from the original island dwellers dating around 1700, before early changes flooded their islands and they came to live in Enkhuizen. The even donated furniture etc. to create exact replicas of the homes. At the museum you get to see all sorts of aspects of traditional life back then. Have made a mental note to come back and do this when we do the tulips next time 🙂
There is another dijk to get back to the other side built in 1963 which is 30 km long. It is also a nice ride across, but does not feel as impressive as the one that blocks the ‘real sea’. So we completed the loop and arrived home an hour later feeling very proud and leaving the car with a ‘high five’ we did it.
Just as we were heading into the back of Giethoorn I spotted a big stork in the paddock. Stop the car Vern! I managed to stalk it and get some great shots including a sequence in flight. Such a thrill for me! It was walking around some yearlings and was nearly as big as them – true!
We ate local again at the place we went to the night before and had a steak meal and Iberian pork neck with beetroot creme and apple jelly. They served nice separate bowls of salad, brat kartofell, and a rhubarb compote which had little blueberries in it. The plates also had some nice hot green veges, so that was delicious. $17 euro each, but whilst it was a brasserie and not high end, it was cooked perfectly – and we left very satisfied.
We strolled home tired enjoying the evening glow on Giethoorn and feeling like we had conquered Everest as we fell into our nice big bed.
Travels with Valrock 