Travelers from ‘down under’ go to Europe for many reasons, one of them being for the beautiful old buildings. The Dutch of course have their distinctive gable style which was both functional and decorative. It was smart, unique and innovative then and now Rotterdam is a showcase for an array of equally innovative cutting edge architecture. In our two days here even though we have walked a few streets a couple of times we are seeing clever new detail each time. Not only are individual buildings really interesting they appear to have been built not in isolation, but with consideration of the surrounds – either to compliment, or use as a decorative border – or perhaps both? Whilst we are by no means knowledgeable about architecture we do appreciate it, and Rotterdam does contemporary architecture the best we have seen it.
It is also a city that although large, does not feel like a big city. Likewise, whilst it is a key industrial port city, it feels more like a trendy fashion hub. Not surprisingly it is flat, and has a sensible grid type pattern. Traffic flows freely and orderly alongside the thousands of bike, tram, metro and foot commuters. There are no big sky scrapers, albeit a few tall buildings and this allows for maximum light and a feeling of openness. There is the huge harbour – river – home to the biggest port in Europe. We went on a 75 minute cruise and only touched a small portion of it – quite incredible. There are a few canals in the city, but not in the old town sense – in fact we did not see an old town in the center, although I believe there is a small older section in one of the surrounding suburbs. Throughout the city there are feature buildings many using quirky leans, or abstract geometric blocks sticking out in unconventional places. There is also playful use of color from the subtle to toy town proportions. Generous plantings of trees and flower pots draw in the green surrounds and frequent appearances of quirky statues and art entertain and tease the imagination.
Rotterdam originally formed around the Binnenrotte, where the little Rotterdam river once flowed. A dam was built in 1270, becoming the center of a small fishing village. Trade and shipping flourished and ‘Rotterdam’ grew rapidly. A chanel was excavated between 1866 and 1872, giving Rotterdam a better connection to the sea and allowing it to grow into the port city it is today. May 14, 1940 during WW2 almost the entire city center was destroyed by bombardments, but the people being very resilient started rebuilding 2 weeks after the war ended. The city made an unconventional and courageous effort to break from the past, and build a modern spacious design. I appreciate they did, but am also very thankful that many towns and cities rebuilt their history and retained the special link to their pasts. Rotterdam’s motto was ‘light-air-space’, which they still adhere to today.
We enjoyed another comfortable night and bought a transport day pass for 7.5 euro. Rotterdam central station is a special building in itself. Rebuilt in 2014, it retains a couple of original features like the clock and lettering (Central Station). About 110,000 people use it every day. We headed directly to the harbour enjoying the tidy buildings, statues and some green belts and arrived where the tours departed about 10 minutes later. We purchased our tickets for a cruise on a nice 30m river boat. It was a pleasant tour and quite enlightening to experience just how big the port is – km after km. After the cruise we grabbed the tram and went the short distance to ‘the’ cafe street called Witte de Withstraat. It was once a bit rough but now it quite trendy. It didn’t grab us as such, so we continued on foot the short distance to the ‘Cube houses’ and De Markthal. The Cube Houses are a surreal ‘forest’ of 45 degree-tilted, hexagonal-pylon mounted, cube shaped apartments located next to Old Harbour. The architect was actually commissioned to build a bridge and came up with the apartments. You can walk around and there is a museum and hostel amongst the apartments. Very cool!
One end of the Cube complex is above the old port (Oude Haven) which has old ships contrasting against modern architecture. The edge is lined with cafe’s including one called Kade 4, that is known for its Dutch apple tart. You guessed it – we stopped in for lunch beside the water and Vern had lovely croquettes (Dutch speciality) and I chose the Blue Stilton, Serrano ham, pear, walnut salad with port dressing. We shared the dessert with a good dollop of whipped cream and nice coffee. The food was very nice, and the atmosphere at the old port just magic and one of those memories we already have imprinted. The type where everything was so perfect, and delighting every sense. Definitely took our time to enjoy each bite, the color and contrast of the scenery, the mellow musical chatter of the Dutch being spoken around us, the proximity to water, all being held together by the warm sun (which actually caught Vern out with a bit of sun burn – oops).
Feeling relaxed we walked over to the Markhal, also build in 2014 as a covered market hall, with housing in the sides. The art lining the inside is by two artists, on numerous panels like a mosaic and called “Horn of Plenty’ – fitting the market theme. I couldn’t figure – like the cube – how people live in the slanted rooms? We grabbed a couple of things at the supermarket before getting a tram back home for a rest and bit of blogging before dinner so we could have an early night. We also needed to pre-pack and organize for our smooth departure in the morning to Giethoorn. At the supermarket we saw they have educational games on touch screens for little people, and there was a little cutie sitting nicely playing. What a good idea! They are by the checkouts for security so no one steals your children I think?
Dinner was a short walk from the hotel in the large pedestrian street where we had seen it very full and popular the night before. It was also busy tonight; always a good sign. It was a chicken BBQ place where you could get salads, wraps, or half or whole BBQ and basted chickens served on big breadboards. We got a small mango chicken salad and half a chook, Radler and a Rose Beer (yep – fruit) – all up 23 euro. Very yum.
Travels with Valrock 
Awesum. I love their out of the box playful creative design – a sublime mix given the heavy functionality of the structure.
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Yes Kirsti, I really can see you loving Rotterdam. Whilst not a living building the Dutch are still conscious of their environment in their builds so I think the values would align and you would appreciate it. The cube houses are absolutely fascinating, as well as the Markthal.
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