Delightful Delft and Harring at Markthal


DSC01555We are staying at the Holiday Inn Express, Central Station which was chosen specifically for its location and our late arrival, its proximity for future hop around transport and it was is reviewed for a ‘budget’ hotel.  So yes whilst my favorite is 5* like the Pan Pacific I can do 3.5* :-).  Included in our very reasonable price of average 93 Euro a night – which is very cheap for Northern Europe city, is a continental breakfast.  This makes it even better value when you add location, and compare it to other hotels.

So we had a great sleep, the room is comfortable, not too small (like Ibis range), the bathroom good size for Europe city, and the aircon is quiet and very efficient.  We enjoyed yet another shower – it has a double size and is recently refurbished – and headed down for some food and good coffee.  We are both really impressed with the breakfast; it has a great range and the freshness and quality of ingredients is 5*.  It is actually the best continental breakfast I have ever had the pleasure of consuming and would beat 90% of the full breakfasts I have had in a hotel.  They are going to get a 5* review from me LOL.  There is a very good self serve coffee machine – and a range of good teas.  You have fresh oranges sliced, and you press your own juice in a machine. Good range of usual cereals, yoghurt, basic whole fruit and spreads.  Hard boiled hot eggs, mustard and mayo sachets.  Now for the really fun part – great range of fresh, warm, crisp on outside and soft inside rolls – kaiser and continental long, wholemeal/grain or white, bagels, croissants and pain chocolat.  Sliced Gouda, cumin Gouda, Goats cheese, chicken, herb chicken, quality ham, mettwurst tubes and pate.  And for added health, plates of sliced fresh tomatoes, cucumber, various colored capsicums, and bottles of good olive oil and balsamic.

As with our little tradition we make our cuppas and juice and get a sharing plate of breads and toppings on the table to enjoy.  With a great start to the day – preloaded supremely we went back to the room to sort a blog post and confirm our day.  There is great wifi in the hotel too, so we are making the most of that and for our short time in Netherlands not bothering to go mobile on the iPad.  Herein also a note, whilst many of you know how hyper organized we are complete with itinerary of daily activities we are very comfortable in adapting it and going with a flow that makes sense in situ (just like Singapore dropping some items). Due to the morning going quickly and us being a little slow – we decided to go to Delft today, and then keep Rotterdam activities near home base for the next day.  A short stroll to the station (8 minutes) a ticket purchased at the vending machine and an easy 10 minute ride later we arrived in Delft. Vern is always amused and somewhat intrigued by the bike parking stations that are at transport hubs – no cars here!

Delft has a village or small town feel, along with the quaintness that comes with it.  Key sites are the old and new kirk (churches) the older having a significant leaning spire, also the many pretty canals, and twin towers dating to 1614 that used to be part of the town wall and entrance.  The towers are currently a private residence and art gallery.  When we were there and I was setting up my photo Vernon pointed to the bridge behind me that was being lifted to let a boat through and then led my gaze down to a big heron on the edge of the water.  I snuck up towards him as I have a thing about photographing herons (and birds actually) and got within 2 meters of it.  Wow that was a thrill and I was rewarded with a great on the money picture.  He or she was catching little something in the water and quite relaxed about this human on the ground hanging over the edge of the water!  Delft of course is also famous for its blue and white pottery.

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We pretty much wandered around and took in the scenery and atmosphere. We didn’t go into the churches as you have to pay and I am a bit selective about paying to enter churches – have a little issue with it. Delft is an easy place to relax and start to unravel and absorb the different country and culture.  Its very laid back, and typically Dutch clean, tidy and orderly with clever touches of plantings or ornaments.  The general absence of cars in the older town centers makes for a quiet and clean environment that is very refreshing. We were reminded of the Dutch lack of space, and the clever use of the same.  There are no real side walks or foot paths bar a narrow strip no more than a metre wide that also serves as a front porch for the old homes and buildings. Next to this are the bike lanes with their silent assasins moving stealthily along.  It is always an adjustment for us to look right not left for any oncoming traffic! Next to those lanes may be a small one lane road – or not.  Bridges with colorful flower baskets and clusters of bikes parked on the railings transport you from side to side.

The periodic musical chiming from the various church bell towers remind you of the living history that is Europe; sweet pastry smells tinged with cinnamon and warm sugar tempt the senses and call to coffee. We arrived at the main square where a live university age jazz band and singers were giving a performance.  Proud families and groovy watchers enjoyed the scene, whilst an old man was feeding the pigeons and mounted police stop to allow a tweenaged girl with Down’s syndrome to pat their horse.  The horse lip nibbled her, causing fear and excitement. We chose a lovely little cafe on the edge of the square which specialized in cup cakes for our snack lunch (like we needed it).  I saw a tempting hot Dutch chocolate at another diners table, covered in cream, mini colored marshmellows and colored sprinkles. Ok, sugar ban is off whilst on holiday. We had a lunch special of fresh white asparagus soup and Dutch ham and cheese toast, finished with the highly recommended (I asked the owner/waiter which was her favorite) carrot cupcake.  It was so nice and reflective sitting in the square on our white cane chairs with candy colored cushions and gelato colored throws.  This is our ‘Netherlands’; calm, clever, quality, delightfully quaint, with good looking healthy, tall and friendly people.

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We arrived back in Rotterdam around 4pm, quickly checked into home for a tea and pee, and then headed out on foot to find Markthal and some harring (raw cured Dutch North Sea herring – a seasonal specialty enjoyed raw, with raw onions and gherkins whole, chopped or in a roll). Markthal is a arch shaped building that has residential homes in it – not sure how that works with the shape, but the Dutch are really innovative like this, and in fact Rotterdam is all about fantastic architecture.  In the center is a nice market space and restaurants and below ground supermarket and more shops. On the inside of the arch is a bright flower and butterfly theme, which adds to the funky style.

The walk from our hotel took about 15 minutes through the CBD and was very pleasant in the early evening sun, probably about 20 degrees.  When we arrived we found a harring stand at the entrance and I was delighted to reacquaint myself with the delicacy.  They did not serve pickles like I had in Amsterdam last time, but it was still mighty fine.  Vern finds me very amusing, but also a little gross – eating dead fish as he calls it. He just doesn’t know what he is missing out on, and I cant tempt him to try it. We wandered the markets a little – they were mainly upmarket international foods – olives, cheeses, wines, middle eastern, etc.  Whilst we were weaving in and out of the stalls oohing and ahhing Vern had a cone of hand cut chips and what was like 1/3 of a jar of mayo (as the Dutch eat them) on top!

We then fell into a Greek Restaurant called the ‘All day Greek” to have our meal  (still really didn’t need anything really) and shared a platter for two that we simply could not finish.  It was good value at 13 euro each, and washed down nicely with a Greek beer and Rose.

Tired legs coaxed into action again we meandered home feeling like we are now on holiday and loving every minute of it, back in this underrated and understated country.

Categories: Europe 2017

7 comments

  1. Love love love your writing Abi! And of course travelling vicariously 💓 That breakfast sounds amazing!

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  2. Thanks so much Petra, I take that as a HUGE compliment coming from you who is no slug in that department 🙂

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  3. Oh yes, that breaky was super!

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  4. Cool. Want to taste that herring. Liking the area..

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    • They are sweet, tender, juicy and a little fishy – must have the pickles and onion with it and bit of extra salt. Also come in a soft bread roll, good for first time! Obviously not as delicate as our white fish at home, but nowhere like a herring in a can.

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  5. hi, We have been to Delft more than a few times, your description was spot-on. Its beautiful but lived in, thats a magic mix. You have a future in travel writing!

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    • Thanks Tim, I would love to do travel journalism – trick is earning enough money to fund it! I was thinking about a travel guide for kiwi’s and Aussies in particular – destination Europe and UK? 🙂
      Might need a few more trips to get more material LOL.

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