Keswick, United Kingdom

On Sunday breakfast is served later later than other days, so we had to wait until 9am. It was simple but well prepared full English with local Cumbrian breakfast sausages along with the usual free range eggs and local bacon. The pork products- bacon in particular is very nice over here, I think its because the B&B’s source it from a local butcher not mass produced stuff. It was a bit drizzly, but we only have today here so we set off to the Supermarket to get picnic lunch and some toiletries where we saw pork pies that had various toppings. They looked so nice that we purchased cranberry and caramelised onion topped one, plus juice for a pound each. I managed to get past the very vast and tempting cider and beer isles without adding some to the basket. I am developing, ok have developed a taste for cider!

The weather deteriorated and was now cold and showery, with tiny peeks of sunshine like Scotland – our hostess says the weather is pretty much the same as the northern neighbours – great.

Our first stop was the Castlerigg Stone Circles where despite the weather there were quite a few people there as it was the Soltice (albeit a bit late for the early morning proceedings). The breeze was blowing fairly and it was freezing. The car had read 11 degrees but it was worse on the hill top where the stones are. The circle is around 4500-5000 yeas old and as mentioned on small hill top with wonderful 360 degree views over valleys on all sides which are fringed by even tall mountainous ranges. You can see why a special site like this was chosen – for whatever the reason they placed these stones there. I wasn’t moved to dance around them naked, but it was neat to see, especially being an “Outlander” fan.

Next we did a car hike as recommended by Rick Steves which took us on a tour of Newlands valley, Buttermere town, Honister Pass, through Borrowdale and back to Keswick along Derwentwater lake. It had the added bonus of being our first experience of really narrow roads, where one car must stop and try and pull over if there is a slight ‘turn out’ , or simply pull over as much as possible to the edge remembering there is no verge and there may a hedge, tiny wall, pot holes and quite possibly leading to cliff edges! I find that holding your breath and pulling your tummy in helps!

The whole area is very scenic, 500 year old farms, lots B&B to supplement the wool trade poor prices – although the price of wool souvenir products one wouldn’t think so. Raggy sheep everywhere with lots of black faces and speckled legs with horns that curl around their heads like Princess Leia from Star Wars.

The Newlands valley lies between imposing green hills, which the higher you climb they increase in rocks and slate. In the valley little stony brooks wind their way past old farm houses and stone walled paddocks shared by sheep and cows. It is a most peaceful country scene. There are lots of trails for hiking, and we saw plenty of brave folk out there enjoying them, dotted along the ridges. The rain had stopped and the sky became increasingly brighter with longer ‘spells’ of sunshine which was awesome.

At end of Newlands Valley you climb up the Honister pass -which is quite thrilling. We stopped at the top and took in the views and man was it freezing – but I think trying to stand up in the wind, and the cold added to the grandeur of it all! I have loaded a short video of the drive down the other side to give you an idea of the roads.

After the pass you come to the little hamlet of Buttermore where we stopped for our picnic and added to it with a hot cuppa and local made Ayrshire ice cream, which was nice but not as good as that Isle of Man ice cream! We took a little stroll to the lake there and passed a cute old couple slowly making their way, complete with back packs and hiking sticks they would have been at least 90!

It is unusual for us here in that sheep are allowed to roam and you just see them munching grass or plonked in a shelter spot, whether it be in town or on a main route.

We had dinner again at the George – I had scallops with hazelnut butter, endive, tomato and onion salad and blackpudding bon bons for an entree. It was so good, and really not pub food. And for a main I had another entree with baby new potatoes on the side – mmmm Haggis fritters, whiskey cream sauce and salad. (of course Vernon shared the Haggis one). He just had a main (which I had one of the breasts) – Pheasant breasts stuffed with cumbrian sausage, wrapped in bacon served with a pepper cream sauce. Nom Nom – oh and there might have been cider on our table too – plus a local beer.

I think I have mentioned this, but I really love these pubs – and this one in particular is the oldest Coaching inn in Keswick, dating back to the 1600’s. Then again its probably good I don’t have one like this close by ….