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Dont look down, Dark Hedges and Titanic
Belfast, United Kingdom |
Belfast, United Kingdom
The B&B I booked was reviewed as having amazing breakfasts and we were not disappointed at all. The hosts both love to cook and have little competitions each other. We had 3 different freshly hand made breads to try with the usual quality spreads, fruits, cereals and yoghurt and a menu choice for breakfast. As we sat down at our beautifully set table we were presented with a menu and asked if we would like tea or coffee. Then out came a basket lined with a pretty cloth and inside fresh off the griddle were wedges of soda bread. It is a triangle shape, looks like a scone and is crispy on the outside and soft and moist and fluffy on the inside. For a person who is fussy with bread and can take it or leave it, I did some damage to the basket level. We chose an Ulster Fry for our meal, which included a ‘potato bread’ (like a pancake) and fried soda bread which is sinfully good, local sausages and bacon, grilled tomato with herbs, and free range eggs from their chickens you could see out the window in the garden. Honestly the best breakfast and breads I have had the pleasure of consuming.
We got to SKYPE the kids before setting off, wishing we had more time in Bellycastle just to eat – like we need it! The rope bridge was not far and we first stopped off at a little village harbour called Ballintoy which has been used for Game of Thrones filming. It was pretty down there, and like many places along this coast, people have been living simply off the land and sea for hundreds of years, so you always feel this history especially with the absence of modern development.
The Carrick-a-Rede bridge was only a short 10 minutes away, and after you pay your fee to the National Trust who manages these places you have a nearly 2km walk along a cliff till you reach a rope bridge 30m above the sea to a headland called Larrybane. The bridge was used by Salmon Fishermen for over 350 years to access best place for fishing.
I had no intention of crossing the bridge as I do not like swingy things. Vern insisted I would be pleased I had done it and under much protest I did go. Can’t say I enjoyed it, but yes satisfaction at conquering my fears. Only trouble is you have to cross back over, and the way back was slowed down by some young ladies taking multiple selfies – grrrr – just hurry up!
Unlike the Giant’s Causeway, we both enjoyed this more than we expected. The walk was very scenic to the bridge, especially with the sun illuminating the mint and emerald water which was fringed in sapphire blue. I have never seen shades of green like that – the photos are totally untouched. The walk is a good bit of exercise, with some hilly/steps bit and not suitable for all but a worthwhile activity if you can make it.
The short 15 minute drive inland to the ‘Dark Hedges’ was through more gentle winding and undulating countryside very similar to NZ but included some pretty flash country Irish mansions – or famers homes. Doesn’t look like a lack of money in this area. The scenery is pretty much green, rolling farmland with cows, sheep and a few horses. The ‘Dark Hedges’ was fun, but I understand that they had to do a bit of pruning as the trees are old and branches were falling and a hazard. You can see new trees planted to replace so that is good.
Further on, next stop was to find the hotel in Belfast and fit in a visit to the Titanic Museum at the original slip way site. The total trip if we had not stopped at the hedges from the top of island, to the the other side at Belfast going down the middle is about 1.5hrs max.
Without too much drama we found the Ibis at Queens quarter easy enough, checked in and grabbed a lunch at an Irish bistro/pub on the corner. We saw a sign saying Sunday carvery £9.95 which we thought was good so we went inside the plush red velvet and dark timbered old building and got stuck in. Soup, cold canapes and dessert was also available and I enjoyed a vegetable and barley soup very much. Vern went straight to the roast and he must look skinny cause they gave him a taste of all meats, not just one. Huge portion of mash, Yorkshire pudding, gravy, roast pumpkin and potato, cabbage in herb sauce, and cauliflower cheese to go with it. I had a modest roast beef, then sampled the dessert table but they were not my cup of tea so I only had taste bites, not worth the kilojoules.
When the bill came we got a fright because we then found out that the roast was £9, two and three courses were extra! Damm, not told to us or written anywhere – so live and learn on that one. I would not have had soup and dessert samples had I known that it was extra as the roast was ample. As Vern shared tasting the dessert they hit him for 2 courses as well. Mmmm the Irish trickery!
Feeling well full, we hopped back in the car and made our way to the Titanic. Well, all I am saying on that one is that what should have been 6 minutes ended up 20 as we made some incorrect turns and roundabout exits. LOL, the roads and markings are a bit different here and in the city its quite confusing and the GPS doesn’t always give you enough notice for the right lane or which jolly exit, and then the driver may not quite get the right one ….. I have since got the hang of a few tricks but it was a little tense. Wasn’t anyone or anythings fault – just a learning experience for both of us.
The Titanic museum is called the Titanic Experience as they try and make it as interactive as possible. You walk your way through a history of Belfast at the time, the people and environment. The vision and building, maps and plans can be scrolled through and expanded and even projected on the floor. Then you go through the building – including a ride in a monorail chair thing and go down and up 4 stories showing projected scenes of building whilst listening to actors talk about their jobs. Next you get to see what the inside was like with a 1st class cabin and displays of fabric and cutlery, crockery, 3rd class sleeper. There was also a stand up Theatre room which the screens wrapped around you and took you through the ships levels from the bilge to a top deck – with a tour as if you were on the boat looking at it. Then you progressed to an interactive audio walk through on recordings of survivors/actors on the events prior to the sinking, from distress call, response, passengers and staff. There was also a section where you could see a big movie of the wreck etc. underwater and also stand on clear perspex and have that movie under your feet as well!
It is a large modern museum of 4 floors and was well worth the visit – we spent 3 hours there before closing and could have spent longer. Unfortunately where the dry dock was, they have filled it over so you no longer see the slip, but they have marked the deck on it, and I think the shape lights up at night.
Our drive back to the hotel was more direct, and we then thought it best to top up with petrol before returning our car in the morning, which was another early start. So we asked reception where the nearest gas station was and he gave us a map – only a couple of minutes up the road. Right. Omitted to tell us about one ways etc, so round the block twice before we got in! LOL, note to travellers – avoid driving in Belfast if possible. Since it was about 3pm when we had our lunch we didn’t bother with dinner, but settled into get a reasonable sleep before our big day tomorrow.