Epidavros, Greece

The 40 minute drive from Corinth to Epidavrus was very scenic, as much was along the coast with dramatic views of green clad high hills on one side and blue sea on the other. There were some islands in the sea and we saw one aqua culture farm.

Whilst there are ruins and a small museum at Epidavros, the 2,500 year old theatre is the star attraction and the one item we went to see. Epidavros was once the most famous healing center in the ancient Greek world – like a Lourdes a place of hope where the sick came to be treated by doctor-priests acting on behalf of the God of medicine, Asklepios. In the museum were some relatively delicate medical instruments that they have found here. The sanctuary reached the height of its popularity in the fourth and third centuries B.C., when it boasted medical facilities, housing for the sick, mineral baths, a stadium for athletic competitions, and a theatre.

Epidavros is built into the side of a tree covered hill, 20 minutes from Nafplio and is the finest and best preserved of all of Greece’s 132 ancient theatres. The main elements of orchestra, and small stage typical of a Greek Theatre are framed by seating for 15,000. It has excellent acoustics and is a testimony to ancient acoustical engineering as even the spoken word can be heard clearly in the upper rows. There is a marble circle in the middle of the orchestra part (centre circular area you look down on) and it is hollow underground this, thereby projecting the voices upwards.It was still very warm at 4pm when we arrived there and the thought of more stairs was a bit daunting but you just dig deep and do what you need to do. The walk from the entry up the hill to the theatre was gentle as far as these hills go and partially shaded by large trees so that was some relief. We got a fresh oj from a rip off stand – paid €4 for a large glass – but that gave us a quick sugar hit and is very refreshing with its intense mediterranean flavours. We still needed a rest when we got to the theatre and sat in a couple of ancient pinky marble high backed seats which were actually very comfortable before making the climb up the top.

There were about 139 very steep and somewhat slippery at times marble and replacement concrete steps to the top. We took the edge lane so we could get a bit of support from the walls. Once up the top we found a partially shaded spot and just enjoyed the views and experience. In summer they hold shows here – which must be cool to attend and enjoy.

We had a quick peek into the museum on the way back and used the very clean, complete with flower vases – WC before heading back home very satisfied with the full days events. Well worth the €200 for the private taxi.

Back in Nafplio we freshened up before heading out for dinner hoping to get an earlier night. We weren’t too hungry after our big lunch and wanted something lighter and vegetarian. We called into a bakery that we got the ice-cream from the other night as it had some very nice looking baking and got some dessert to eat later – a chocolate baklava and a semolina citrus syrup cake (little squares of each) and a little cup of profiteroles smothered in rich ganache style sauce and chocolate shavings. Fast forwarding on the story they were all excellent (I don’t give that grade easily) especially the chocolate baklava which had almost soft creamy layers in it omg. I forgot to mention the other night we also got a cream filled pastry horn with almonds on top – which was actually layers of filo shaped in the horn with honey syryp on it like a baklava. Man that was good too. So back to dinner – after much wandering and touter dodging we went to the place we got annoyed at the first night – the Matre de was not on thankfully.

It turned out to be very very good – we got antipasto style dinner of taramasalata (smoked fish roe dip), fried cheese and ham rolls (filo pastry), eggplant rolls, and greek salad. Try as we might we could not finish it all. I also enjoyed a glass of local white which was very nice – like a pinot gris.

We wandered home through old town with its softly lit narrow lanes and town square and small shops filled with tourists and locals enjoying the evening. The strong sweet scent of star jasmine and the rich pink of the abundant bougainvillaea completed our memory of Nafplio.