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Palace and Park Splendour
Potsdam, Germany |
Potsdam, Germany
A visit to Potsdam was on todays itinerary, it is the capital of the state of Brandenburg and only 24 miles south west of Berlin – but it could be worlds away it is so different. We took the S Bahn and the trip was only a little over half an hour. About 15 minutes out of the city the landscape changed from the urban industrial to lovely woodlands and gorgeous villages typical German style. I didnt catch all the town names but it must be where the wealthy Berliners live I imagine.
Potsdam train station is modern, clean, and set in the middle of a shopping complex or mall. We got a great lunch for 4.30 euro all up – see picture – and then caught a discounted (our welcome card) hop on hop off tour of the town, intending to get off at the big over 600 acre park where most of the 12 palaces are, the most famous being Sanssouci.
I think Potsdam is something to be experienced, claimed as one of the most beautiful towns in Germany and Unesco world heritage classified nearly 20 years ago. It is loaded with history – of which I know nothing about (shame) and home of the former Prussian royalty. The town centre has its modern side which seemed nice and tidy, and an old town which also has a ‘dutch quarter’. The powers that be many years ago tried to get dutch to settle as the water table is pretty high and they wanted their drainage expertise so they built homes in the dutch style to attract them.
As soon as you leave the train station you see other grand buildings of historic significance – many looking like palaces themselves even if they were actually military horse stables! There are lakes and rivers around the city and divine old villas lining the water ways and other simply grand business buildings in town.
The Glienicker Bridge is known for one of the few places during the Cold War that the Soviet Union and Western powers stood facing each other. Apparently it was used 4 times to exchange spies, accordingly it is known as the ‘Bridge of Spies”. Potsdam was under East Berlin at that time.
KGB had headquarters in Potsdam and there is a Russian sector called the ‘forbidden town’ which runs next to the huge park. I am not sure whether they built these homes or took them over, but the houses and gardens there are the most beautiful I have seen anywhere in the world – streets of fairytale houses and gardens to long for. We were both gaga viewing them from the bus – sorry unable to get pictures as the hop on hop off are useless here for vision and photography.
If we had more time I would go back and explore by foot for sure. In fact except for our wonderful apartment here in Berlin I think we should have based ourselves in Potsdam and day tripped for the things in Berlin that we wanted to see. Needless to say, I would recommend a few days there to see all there is and learn about the history.
We had decided not to go inside the Sanssouci Palace as it is modelled on Versaille and we will be going inside the later, however we had heard that the Neues Palace was very interesting inside and when we saw it we thought – what the heck why not?
It was built by one of the Wilhelms as he didn’t really like his uncle who he had succeeded and wanted something with his own stamp on so to speak. He was very fond of art and even had a huge theatre as part of the complex. Whilst the building is not super spectacular outside it was delightlful to go through and I was pleased that I could actually take photos by purchasing a photography pass (no flash allowed) for 4 euro, and had great fun snapping away.
Inside the palace you have to wear these oversized slippers to protect the floor. They are a health and safety risk as its so slippy and they are one size – Sasquatch. The Gestapo staff did put a damper on the visit a bit, they are so serious and grumpy if you step too far to the left or as in my case the camera pass tag broke so Vern carried it in view. One staff member did not like this, and on inspection grumbled that I did not have it attached. Hello – I did ask for another one in the ticket office but that apparently was not possible, neither was cellotape or a stapler available when I asked, so no option but to carry it. There were other things too (like backpacks on front of body – fair enough but everything was roped off or glassed off so you couldn’t have brushed against anything anyway). They were ridiculously pedantic, much like some experiences we had in America of security staff. Really they should get a life – or prozac or something.
Grizzle over we enjoyed the visit – just beautiful. They are restoring it bit by bit – so some parts were original and old and tatty like a faded grand old beauty which added to the experience. Highlights were stunning German ceramics including ceramic chandeliers, silver and gold embroidered pure silk wall covering (like wall paper) inlaid wooden floors, rocco ceilings, majestic wood grained clocks, inlaid writing desks, and lovely senuous paintings – all making up a feeling of opulence.
I learnt something quite obvious from the audio guide which was about themes for rooms. I say obvious as I didn’t really think of all rooms in this way until pointed out. A room was created according to its theme – not named afterwards. For example one room called the Chrysanthemum room was so tastefully done with the flower detail featuring in some shape, form or style from ceiling to floor. The styles were different and ranged from bold to subtle and matched and clashed so cleverley that it produced such a pleasing result, well in my opinion anyway. And so the rooms progressed ie., the green room, the hunting room, the silver room etc.
After our self guided tour we walked for 20 minutes along a regal road pausing to enjoy a couple of feature gardens nestled amongst the wooded park until we came to Sanssouci. It looked lovely on top of the vine terraces so it was probably just as well we were too late in the day to change our mind and visit it too!
We walked into town a further km or two enjoying the lovely houses and streets, had a cuppa and scouted for a place to eat but couldn’t find a suitable one so got the train back home finding an Indian restaurant near the station. I was a bit dubious as I have not forgotten my Kuala Lumpur experience but the charming young waiter got chatting and Vernon was hungry. As it happened he picked us as Kiwis as his brother lives in Auckland – used to live in Te Puke, and now has NZ passport. Huh, small world and one of the few people we have met that doesn’t think you need a space ship to visit NZ – he has been twice and loves it. By the way it was great service and atmosphere – very trendy modern place but the food not quite as good as we have had back home. For outside seating in Berlin many upmarket places have individual blankets on the seats and you drape yourself with that to enjoy the street ambience and smoke. Shouldn’t think you would need them in summer but at 7 degrees tonight you did. On a final note, I still have dinner in my stomach so that is a good sign.
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