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Berlin, Germany

Berlin is a big city (to us) with a population of about 3.5 million. We hear a few grumbles that the population is made up of fewer and fewer second generation German – having a large immigrant population seeking a better life style. It seems quite spread out, with wide tree lined streets, a large central park (Tiergarden), areas vacant and yet to be developed, a fair few empty buildings and loads of apartments that house 80% of the city population! There is a lot of construction and restoration going on everywhere you look – clearly a sign of a city that has some money to spend.

Getting around Berlin by public transport is quite easy once you get familiar with it, and the only way to get familiar is to use it! Very regular buses, U bahn (underground), S bahn (above ground), trams and regional trains; all of it cheap too. We got a ‘Berlin Welcome Card’ which gave us 5 days free travel within the city and in the ‘C’ zone outside, plus discounts to restaurants, tours and attractions, all for €32. It has been great just jumping on transport as we choose and not having to buy a ticket. Having said that the transport here is based on an ‘honour’ system and we have not been checked once, unlike other cities.

We had a relaxed start this morning and more time (not so relaxed) spent planning and information seeking on our French leg – the main hurdle being getting accommodation in Paris at a rate that doesn’t require a second mortgage. Sure there are some cheaper places but honestly under 200 NZ a night gets you a place that is so tiny you can’t shut the toilet door, 5 flights of stairs with no elevator, no airconditioning, noisy, inconvenient neighbourhood and a tiny pull out bed. Seriously! And you probably get bed bugs for free. Both of us are a little tired at the moment- not over the holiday – just feeling our age so we are taking the opportunity of a nice spacious apartment, a comfortable bed and a weeks stop in once place to recharge.

At lunch time we headed out and walked to Checkpoint Charlie to pick up a hop on hop off bus tour. Feeling peckish while we were waiting we grabbed a ‘Berlin Curry Wurst” and it was tasty. It is a local staple for which they even have a museum about. Curry Wurst is a sliced sausage – bratwurst – served in a cardboard cup with hot (temperature) thick sweet tomato sauce (cross between a pasta sauce and watties tomato sauce) and then a good shake of curry powder on top. It is served with a little fork and a bun on the side. Sounds kind of odd but it works and nice on a cold day which today was. In fact – not being one to moan about the weather at all – (cough) the weather has been terrible in Berlin – one minute blue sky with some clouds and maybe 19 degrees to rain coming from nowhere and about 13 degrees. Rubbish for summer I reckon – you have to dress for all conditions.

The scenery around Berlin city is not overly exciting. There are a few interesting buildings of sorts – they seem very proud of their architects but its all spread out and a bit mish mash. The river Spree that surrounds the central part is a dark cloudy brown black almost like it has tannin so its not that attractive despite the nice trees everywhere. It has lots of bridges and some are interesting and a lot are not. There are very few fountains or statues or spectacular squares – the only one being Museum island with its buildings dating back to the 1800’s and there is no old town to add an historic charm. In fairness it did get hammered a lot in the war – even so the rebuild is just not very thrilling.

On the way around we passed a small section of the Berlin Wall that is still standing at a place called the Topography of Terror. It is at the site of the former SS and Gestapo Headquarters (mostly a barren lot) but now a museum and place of remberance and learning. We didn’t go fully through but read and saw some good picture boards near the wall.

So far I am not sure what to think about Berlin – its different – not bad and not great. It feels a relaxed place and we enjoy wandering home late and feeling safe in a clean modern (except for Sunday the place is shut) city. I like the trees and openess yet there is a struggling side – young semi punk, drugs, immigrants and graffiti – some areas we would not feel safe in or recommend to go. One main train station and plaza we have had to pass and change at often – Alexander Platz is not nice – ferral for sure.

The city people here are like in other big cities and do not wish or attempt to engage with you. Smiles are rare and we don’t hear laughter much at all. Sometimes when you seek more information they get abrupt back to you and some even pretend they don’t speak English when you know they do (they don’t know I can understand them ….) There is that beige blandness I have seen from Germans as tourists in other countries and in other parts of Germany – more women do not wear makeup than those that do, and there is a noticeable absence of bling and fashion or beautifully cut or designer label smarter dressing. There somehow seems an emphasis on the practical verses the decorative and I think its reflected in the city buildings and people. Note I am generalising and speaking on my perceptions on what is prevalent and I have experienced – of course its not everyone!

You may have guessed that I have not felt a connection to the culture like I thought I may – I am learning more about myself as the trip goes on and whilst a few parts of my makeup are quite European, I think I identify more with New Zealand culture. Time will tell on that one – who knows I may feel odd or out of place once I get home?

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