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Salzburg, Austria

After a fair bit of deliberation and checking the weather forecast which was for some more thunderstorms and rain we decided that we would skip Hallstatt and stay in Salzburg as it probably wouldnt be very scenic or peaceful if a clean up was going on and more rain on the way. We rung and spoke to the hotel we had booked and they said things were fine which I felt was not really 100% honest. Good news that the hotel was fine but we had seen the pictures of the town and there was a lot of damage which would not be all cleared in a day or two – not to mention that we would probably be rained in.

We took some time to research and find another affordable hotel as our one was totally booked out and we couldn’t extend our stay. Quite a few other good options were also booked out so we ended up choosing the cheaper sister hotel – the Holiday Inn which was about 15 mins walk away. Again we note how long this booking as you go takes and are thankful for all the pre work I did before we left for the first half of our trip.

When we got to the Holiday Inn it was a bit of a come down and really not the best location – a good walk from town attractions – 15-20 mins and in an older busines fringe district. As I am a Priority Privilege member we did get free wifi and a nice upgraded room on the corner. The room was very clean and comfortable and quite spacious too compared to some we have had so that is all a bonus.

So with more time in the city we had a slow start to renew some energy that the previous week’s heat robbed us of, and then made our way into town to look at St Peters church which is said to be just as scenic as the Wieskirche in lower Bavaria. I had wanted to see the Wieskirche but logistically could not get to easily within our time and resources. I have posted a picture of St Peters and whilst it was large and Rocco style it didn’t knock our socks off or have a vibe we connected with.

Around the corner is a very old cemetry which is beautifully kept but the head stones are not that old due to the rental system – if no relative pays after a certain time the plot is recycled – so out goes the old and in with the new…. a little odd to my way of thinking but space is of a premium in Europe I think?

On the hill come cliff face behind was advertised a catacombe which one could visit for only €1.50 entrance so we thought we may as while climb up the many uneven and steep steps to see. As it happens its not a catacombe but a place some hermit monks lived and then err rested. You just got to see the hollowed out chapel and a hole where I think someone may have been interned once. Bit of a rip off, and you can see why Salzburg has the reputation of grabbing the tourist dollar. Great views from up there and good exercise though:-)

We continued around the corner to get the Funicular up to the fortress. It is huge and very impressive and was first built in the 11th century by Archbishops for security. Over the next couple of hundred years it was extended to what remains today as the oldest and best preserved fortress in Europe. It was so big and strong it never got damaged or taken over but was surrended to Napoleon. There is the outside wall that you see, and when you get inside there is a inner wall for the older part which was also an extra security for the Archbishop – princes. It really is a village on top of a hill.

Wonderful atmosphere up there, you easily can imagine what a medieval walled fortress must have been like to live in. Your ticket gives you access to museums and an audio tour of a small section along the wall including history, building models over the years, torture chamber and king of the castle view from the top of a tower.

In the state rooms and Archbishops chambers you see some lavish decoration of the time which had moorish influences of gold buttons on timbered ceilings. There was a huge decorative ceramic stove – I think they were used for heating – which was very impressive in detail. I have included a picture of some arches dating back to about 1300 which were only discovered a few years ago when they were doing renovations – fascinating to see the paintwork so pretty and think that it has been hidden for hundreds of years.

The weather has definately cooled down and we were actually a bit cold by the time we left. It was a pity about the clouds that hid the dramatic Austrian Alps and plains but I think I would rather that than attempt sight seeing up the stairs etc in a heat wave.

At the foot of the fortress there is a great display showing the use of the river by the early residents for powering mills, creating power, and piping for drinking. We also passed through a large Amber shop and there were some tempting pieces of wonderful green to dark golden brown with metalic gold flecks dancing in the light but the price was just too excessive.

Whilst some may think I have no problem spending money, I do not always spend so freely. I have difficulty parting with my money if I do not think the spend is value for money. They had some stands with 70% and 50% off but it wasn’t the nice stuff of course – so I figured the other items were grossly overpriced and refused to buy anything – even though I have wanted an Amber piece for a number of years. No worries, I may have enough bling at home anyway? Those that know my stash may think so!

The temperature continued to drop and then the sky did – ie., it started to spit – so we headed home as quickly as our legs would take us to change before eating. There is no underground in Salzburg but a bus system that is really hard to work out so its just as easy to walk for us. We have been unable to find a schedule or web site on the internet and the only bus station is by the train station and its basically un-manned with few English information boards etc. Not so good if you think of all the tourists the city relies on.

A quick note on the horses here – they are so sweet looking and I remembered from my horsey days that there are a couple of Austrian breeds – the Lipizaner (dancing ones) and these other ‘Haflinger’ which are mostly palimino coloured and 13-15 hands high. To go for a ride in a carriage is very expensive 40 euro each for 25 minutes. So I have satisfied myself with photos and breathing in their lovely sweet breath and other horsey smells.

We got back to the hotel just in time before the rain got serious and then went out for a nice simple dinner at a hip bio-burger shop. Bio here is organic and it was fresh tasting and value for money at 5 euro a burger and a bowl of coleslaw with house made dressing 2.40 euro. Back to the value for money, on a budget its hard to find dinners meeting that criteria here, so we are quite happy with these simple alternatives. Sometimes you have to bend or modify the rules you have like “eat local” as they don’t make sense with some of your other rules like “value for money” 🙂

We hoped to share an ice cream after our burger at the nice place we had seen a couple of nights ago. It was about 9pm and Saturday night but when we went there it was closed. We walked all over new town and nothing else was open for dessert. Unbelievable. No corner shops or 7/11’s either and supermarkets close at 1800. Like Germany they are also closed on Sunday. Very frustrating! Oh one exception the train station has a supermarket open on Sunday which shuts at 20:00 hrs. Salzburg is very quiet for a tourist city – bit dead actully or very low pulse.

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