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Munich, Germany

Happy 51st birthday Habibi- and guess what he wanted to do – go to Dachau today. Whilst I wanted to go, I was not so sure a concentration camp was a nice thing to visit on his birthday. Never the less armed with research on how to go there by oneself rather than a tour, off we went.

The day cost us a day pass on the train which covered train and bus to the camp all for 13 euros versus 46 euro each for an organised tour. The train trip was only about 15 minutes, then a bus trip through the pleasant town of Dachau to the site.

I was not sure what to expect or how I would feel visiting Dachau, a part of me feels German shame for the horrible persecution of people at all the camps and I have tried to understand how this could have gone on. I have had these questions since my teens when I learnt about WW2, and my extended family and other German family friends have either refused to talk about the war period or not explained much at all.

The visit helped fill in some gaps. There is a beautiful green and wooded approach to the gates that have the words “Arbeit macht Frei” (Work sets you free – of course it didn’t really). Standing in front of the gates and looking into the yard and the serious and somewhat pensive faces of all other visitors immediately fills the atmosphere with a mix of emotions. People begun to talk in hushed voices and you could just feel the importance and sacredness of what you were about to experience as you went through the gates. Different things to different people but I am sure that no one left untouched.

Inside in one of the original workshops and admin offices there is a very good memorial museum screening a movie, and displaying artefacts and information on big boards with pictures. It started with a history of Germany and the environment that led to Hitlers rise to popularity and power – this answered a lot. It also showed how many others went to the camps other than Jews – basically anyone in opposition to Hitler – which was an eye opener. The whole memorial was very balanced, informative and respectful. The movie was such that I had to shut my eyes at some parts and clearly others were moved deeply.

Outside walking in the yard where they had roll call every morning I got chills and goosebumps a couple of times despite it being a 27 degree day. I also did not like to stand and look at the wall where they did the shooting executions. The barracks that they have built are reconstructions on top of the original piles and as you walk through them and see the replica bunks its feels very sombre and you have to remind yourself that this is where it all took place – it wasn’t a movie, it was real. Its weird but you want to disassociate yourself from the reality – we have all seen the movies and documentaries but when you are there its so sad that you subconsciously want to think it is or was all make believe.

Behind the reconstructed row of barracks are the original piles of all the other barracks and they lie like grave plots for quite a distance. Walking along the tree lined path it was quiet except for the breeze rustling the leaves sounding like hundreds of whispering voices.

Across a brook is the original crematorium and gas chamber. At Dachau the gas was never used (apparently). No one knows why, perhaps because it was the first one built, from which others were modelled on. People were worked to death here, executed in the yard, or by the trees, on the way to work, or perhaps hanged right in front of the furnaces. The ones for mass group killing got shipped to some of the other camps for gassing.

It felt so sad in that building I was overcome with emotion a couple of times. Despite the claims about the gas not being used, I personally experienced at one point whilst standing in the gas chamber that I was not alone, feeling a strong spiritual presence. I did not sense fear for the people because I kind of think by the time they had to confront their death, they probably wanted to go because their lives in the camps were so awful. Apparently a lot used to commit suicide as they had given up hope.

However, it just felt so sad – peaceful and sad. It is tragic that such a thing happened, went on for such a long time and on a big scale.

So both of us left with respect and thoughts of those that suffered and pleased to have experienced the spirit of the memorial, which is to remind us that we humans must never let any thing like that happen again.

Vern adds that he is pleased to have gone on his birthday as it made him appreciate being alive with the opportunities and freedom he has.

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