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Moselkern, Germany

We debated a bit whether to do Burg Elz as when we did our detailed research we found it was not easy to get to by public transport. Some people said that it took 90 minutes to walk from the nearest public transport, others said 30 minutes each way. And then the weather was very changeable with rain forecast. We made the commitment to do it whatever and put our good walkers on and took the umbrella – somewhat doubtfully as the sun was out.

Our warm up 20 minute walk took us into town to buy a SIM card as in Germany they do not have good wifi in hotels and very few cafe’s have it. The other kiwis confirmed our experience and we felt the need for a back up especially as we have a lot of planning and booking to do yet, and had wasted major time at our current hotel with slow internet and it dropping out all the time. For 19 euro we got 1 month free unlimited internet – the first 280mb is high speed and the rest normal which is about 30 odd dollars. Not bad at all.

Next was a 15 minute train trip to Moselkern, where we had a little over a 5km trek, half through the very sleepy town and the remaining 2.4 km through the protected Elz Forest to the hidden Burg on a rock in a valley. As mentioned it was a sunny day with rain forecast and accordingly it was warm and stinking humid – must have been about 90% humidity! I had a wet back and wet back pack by the time we got there – yuk.

About 1km into the forest there is a lovely hotel with a cafe which seemed like an awfully good place to stop and fuel for the climb up and along the hilly forest trail. Pictured is our snack and it was as tasty as it looked – all up 10 euro. The err creamy cake had a thin crisp pastry on the bottom, jam glaze, light moist sponge, not too sweet mixed berry layer, cream, soft sponge, cream and then light choux on top. So fine! The cherry cheesecake was also perfect – light, creamy, cheesy and not too sweet.

I have yet to find good German dinners (like my mum and omi make), but their breads, lunch rolls and cakes are so DIVINE! Oh and their white wines….

The winding forest or bush trail followed a bubbling river. Despite the humidity it was very pleasant walking through the lush forest full of bird song. I find it strange that the rivers are not clear here like at home or blue (as they were in Switzerland). They are not dirty, but greeny which Vern said is due to the ground or rather soil under the water verses clear over rocks or sand. We passed people along the way and got cheery hellos. Germans tend to be a lot more polite than Italians and Spanish but do not quite have the same warmth and interest in you that the Dutch do.

I must qualify that these are just my first impressions and generalisations. We are still getting the constant looks at our feet (not today as we had shoes verses jandles) and clothes and horns or whatever they find so odd about us – but we get looked over heaps and mostly with disapproving looks – everywhere except Holland. It really bugs Vernon – I don’t care – but I would like to know what is so unusual about us? There have been “eyes for christmas” looks as well from men, but generally the women have issues.

Back to the castle, it is special and somewhat unique as it has missed damage from wars and attacks probably due to its hidden location. It is basically original with a few additions and has been with the one family since the 12th century. You pay for a tour which gives you 40 minutes viewing a select number of (display) rooms and the treasury. Its a pity that you cannot take photos inside, but are welcome to outside. It is medieval style and I learnt that a Burg – castle is a defence or fortress and a Schloss is a palace. So Burgs whilst romantic are not so flashy – although still interesting and fun.

I find it fascinating to think how they were built in and around rocks. Inside, some of the twisting stair wells are basically carved into and around rock, and the same with some walls. This castle also has one of the first flushing toilets (of a type) and the oldest bed and bedding in Germany dating to around 1500. Going back it housed not just one member of the family but 4 branches all with their own wings and kitchens.

The treasury has an incredible collection of weapons ranging from early cross bows, mean swords and axes, pistols and rifles. The later dating back to 14th-16th century. We saw jewellery, crockery, glass, clothing, armour, nick nacks, tapestry, art, furniture, skulls and taxidermy bears and other trophy kills – all wonderfully in situ.

Whilst we were waiting for our english tour we met an interesting USA military gentleman who was based locally in an HR role. He had previously been based in Singapore and he gave us great tips for there on the way home. You see a few American military around and lots of planes over Cochem, apparently there is a German base close by.

Our tour guide was so dry he should have had a warning “highly flammable” sign around his neck. He had an english tinged German accent, pan face, and such seriousness to his talk – it was sometimes hard for us to keep a straight face. When we started off someone had a screaming toddler which made it very hard to hear, so the guide would pause, increase his look of disapproval and then raise his voice to continue. All the other tourists were also becoming increasingly intolerant of the noise and thankfully after about 4 minutes the granny took it out. To which everyone audibly breathed a collective sigh of relief and the guide asked if he should start again 🙂

It was a great tour nonetheless and we had another cuppa, this time exercising restraint without a cake, before trekking our tired old legs another 5 kms back to the station. Thankfully it had clouded a bit and then it rained which eased the humidity and also made carting the umbrella worthwhile. We hardly passed anyone on the way back which gave a lovely peaceful feel to the wooded forest. I was worried about bears, wolves and witches though ….

We ate at a corner restaurant with €10 meals as we don’t have a lot of faith in value for money at the more upmarket places here. It turned out to be our best meal in Cochem – there you go. We swapped half way and had Sauerbraten (topside roast marinated in wine and slow cooked), red cabbage and potato klose (dumplings) and Brat Kartofell (fried pototoes) with onions and bacon, char grilled pork neck chop, onion gravy and salad – which had lots of red and green cabbage salad in it. Not flash or fancily presented but good, tasty and warming especially as the rain had increased to quite a steady pace.

We headed home for an earlier night as we have a big day of 6hrs train travel direct to Munich tomorrow. Roll on beer hall and pork hocks.

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