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Dubrovnik, Croatia

We took Dino’s advice to do the “Wall” walk early to avoid the heat and crowds and were pleased to have done so. It is a paid entry and not for the vertigo or claustrophobic inclined being high and narrow. You begin the 2.5km walk climbing stairs to about 50 foot then you climb to about 82 feet (25 meters) and are rewarded with wonderful views over the city roof tops and up and down the coast. The highest point, a tower is a further 20 meters up! And yes we had to climb that part too of course.

We took our time to enjoy the whole experience and all the different views as the wall goes up and down and around corners or into look outs. It was first built in the 7th century and has been expanded and maintained over time. I was imagining the history of watch-people running, yelling warnings, and battles.

It is quite sobering in Croatia to think that it was only in 1991 that the last war took place and you can feel something in the air that just doesn’t feel right like a sadness or emotional pain of a people that have had it tough. The last war of course has not been its only occupation or war and there is a real mix of cultures here. Although it is very tourist friendly and safe around here I get the impression that it is somewhat veneered and that life for locals is still not easy despite peace times and a thriving tourist industry. When you view these historic places it seems ok to think of battles past long ago, but I find it disturbing to think of modern man fighting whch is silly really. Just one of those things in my head.

Back to tour we thoroughly enjoyed our walk and kept marvelling at how pretty it is; well preserved, clean, fresh air and breezes from the sea, dazzling aqua waters, warm climate, green and grand stoney hills and overall very relaxing.

Of course all this exercise and beauty works up an appetite so we zipped through the lanes back to our new favourite restaurant to try more Bosnian food. I have developed a taste for the coffee black so enjoyed a shot of that in cute cups and vases and then we shared a veal and vegetable casserole, freshly baked pide bread and a selection of borek which we both love. I first tried them in Melbourne and for those that have not yet had the pleasure its a version of Filo that is thin soft and tender chewy, filled with whatever you like and often cooked in a swirl shape. The selection we sampled were cheese, spinach, meat and seasoned potato. All delicious and less than $30 including drinks.

Nicely satisfied we made our way home for a little rest (as you do) and blog catch up before walking up more steps to the fortress behind our house on the hill. Lovrijenac Fort was built in 1018 in 3 months to resist Venetian attack who were going to build their own fortress there. The walls at the sea side are 40ft thick. Since it was initially built it has been extended and improved and repaired. Currently its used as a theatre giving excellent ambience to plays such as Hamlet as well as being an historical site for tourists.

Next stop on the agenda was a cable car ride up the hill behind the city. This was a highlight as when we alighted not only was the view terrific but the stony hills close up were displaying wonderful herbaceous wildflowers and herbs. Like Ferdinand the bull I just had to sit among them and sniff the fragrance with the bees who I am sure were making tasty honey! There was sage, mint, lavendar just about to pop out, thistles, and many other yellow, purple and white flowers that I do not know the names of. What a treat I am having in Europe seeing all these flowers growing wild many of which I would probably buy at a garden centre at home.

We stayed up the top as the sun got lower and as long as we could before the cable car closed. Dinner tonight was at the place next to our favourite to check out the fish dish I saw someone else eating at lunch time. The Taj Mahal – our favourite Bosnian does not have any fish dishes strange to note, probably as Bosnia doesn’t have much coast line? Anyhow, NOM NOM NOM, I had a whole sea bass grilled and served with a bit of stock drizzled over, plus olive oil and gremolata, and some greens.

I don’t think they grilled it as it had the crispiest delicious skin top and bottom, so if it was grilled it was on a curved hot plate with lots of olive oil basting. Regardless and certainly with no complaint it was the nicest whole fish I have ever had. Vernon had goulash which was nice and we shared a huge antipasto beforehand which had the array of cheeses, smoked meats and octopus salad (hehehe all for me).

We barely had room to finish our meal and declined dessert, so the waiter went off and instead of bringing our bill, brought us complimentary glasses with at least a triple nip each of “grappa” in it. Oh my goodness – rocket fuel to say the least. I took a little sip and my lips went numb for about 30 seconds, not to mention the fire trail from mouth to belly. We could only manage a few mils per sip. When the waiter came by again I asked what percent alcohol it was – he shrugged and smiled – “maybe 50? Its high and its homemade so it could be anything, would you like some more? You like?” “Oh its lovely thank you, but no I will not be able to walk home if I have anymore”. He grinned and left, at which point Vernon and I quickly poured the majority of what was given to us into our empty juice bottle when no one was looking as we did not want to offend anyone, but seriously we would have fallen off the chair if we had drunk the 3 nips given to us!

We happily and crookedly walked home in the gentle rain to fall asleep to the sound of water lapping gently against the rocks below our window.

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