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Rome, Italy

So much for 8 hrs sleep, despite best intentions and a relaxed agenda we seem to fill days and nights up too much! Another glorious day and off to conquer the Vatican which we were warned you can loose a day easily – and we did. Firstly we checked with an optometrist a few doors down if he could do replacement glasses for mine that broke in Nice. We were delighted to hear that he could do it immediately – fit to my prescription that I had emailed to me from home. Wonderful! He had such a funky array that we decided to come back later and off we made our way around the block to see the crowds lined up for the same site seeing we had planned.

On route much to Vernon’s delight we walked past a Motorbike shop that had about four of his favourite classic bikes outside amongst other models. We went inside to see if he was a repair or sales place and whilst he spoke about as much English as we spoke Italian, there was an immediate kindred spirit connection with Vernon. An exchange made up of gestures, ‘si’ and grins followed and they managed an admirable conversation. He restored them for other people and the side distraction brought a glow to hubby’s face.

When we saw the lines for the Vatican museum we decided to pay a little extra and take a tour which would give us immediate entry. We had tried to reserve on line but had no printer facilities so couldn’t do that. No worries we soon were inside and had a real character for a guide. He was around our age and I am sure he was dutch. He was extremely knowledgeable and well travelled so it was worth the few dollars extra to save time and learn a bit about Italian history and art.

Whilst we were waiting I saw a gypsy dressed woman walking around the crowds and hanging around groups of people waiting to cross the road when the lights went green. I nudged Vern to watch her and then we SAW it, she did someone over. Oh my gosh – she would tap people on the shoulder and hold up one of her hands in a begging gesture and mumble something meanwhile the other hand which was hidden by her loosely draped shawl would forage in pockets or exposed belt bags etc. We quickly alerted one man who had been done over right before our eyes whilst he was totally unaware. Fortunately his wallet was still safe but I am sure she got something. Boy oh boy they are so blatant but to be fair some people do leave themselves too vulnerable.

Inside the crowds were diabolical to the point that you could hardly move. It was also ‘cruise boat’ day so there is a warning – check if boats are due in on the days you want to see major attractions and if at all possible reschedule!!!!! We were whisked along quite quickly once we got going so at the end of the 2.5 hrs we did a split and went back to the beginning to see parts we did not even touch on.

So highlights? For me it was the age of some of the exhibits such as the Etruscan room and the beautiful detail of the vases, bowls etc. The items pictured date back to about 500-650 BC. In the Egyptian wing the vases around the mummy dated back to 3rd millennium BC!!! A glass vase that I have pictured was about 500BC and it had beautiful pearlescent colouring. The bronze work which was soldered dated around 450-550 BC. Wow!

Vernon loved the map wing, which our guide likened to the the first National Geographic. This is where decisions and deployments would have taken place – and hand copies made to show the way. He loved the idea of the history that would have gone before and the footsteps of lives unknown before him down those halls.

The museum is not a new building or the palace where the popes (past) used to live. Both are basically displayed as it was years ago for aristocrats etc as a private art collection. It is huge and the wealth of it all is a little obscene when one thinks about it.

We also saw the Sistine Chapel, Raphael rooms, and St Peters. The Sistine is small so far as some of the churches go and is just one big series of paintings by Michael Angelo. No photos allowed there but it was dark, intimate and very 3D art. Unfortunately as my glasses were not done, I could not see the detail so well but Vernon loved it! The Raphael wings were stunning – photos allowed.

St Peters did not overly impress me, however Vernon got it more than I. It is huge without question but all too big and grand for me. I felt it lacked an intimacy and showcased a religious empire more than a place of worship (here I go again). The style was not as appealing to either of us as for example the Sagrada Familia in Spain or some other churches which seem more attractive even if they are 1/4 of the size!

We ran out of time to go and see the underground where St Peter is buried or climb the claustrophobic, vertigo inducing dome. Maybe if we have time Vern can do the dome tomorrow…. We had a huge yummy gelato at a cheap but very popular place our host told us about and then dinner across the way where we dinned last night. A new gelato flavour I tried was ricotta and pistachio, NOM.

Back to dinner, I wanted to try their artichokes which I missed out on the night before but the owner came and spoke to me in Italian (which I did not understand) and then the son interpreted that they were past the best of the season and he would rather I not have them. OK, then I will try your chicory I replied somewhat disappointed. When we were half way through our antipasto out came a plate with a solitary artichoke, glistening in a swirl of Olive oil, just for me complimentary. NOM NOM.

I followed that with seafood spaghetti which left me no room for a dessert. Darn it. The chickory was lovely by the way – they boil it till tender, cool and then saute in oil and garlic. Like a cross between spinach and watercress. Ahhh we are enjoying the simple Italian food and err drink.

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