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Orvieto, Italy

Our host who lives in an apartment next to the BB brought us breakfast in the ‘common’ room and fussed like a hen to ensure everything was ok. When our other roomies got up he even asked if it was ok to put Vivaldi on which added to the old world atmosphere. Food was simple Italian with pastry, biscuits and these dry toast crackers, juice, coffee and spreads. It was really special to sit in such a beautifully decorated room, looking out lace curtains at the other old building across the narrow street whilst being watched by the faded and patchy frescoes.

I took some time to update my blog but couldn’t catch up fully as the Internet was a bit intermittent and then we went off to see the views and climb up and down the St Patricks Well. We were also going to go inside the cathedral but they wouldn’t let you take pictures and what I saw when I peeked through the door was not as compelling as the exterior.

The photos show the view of the rolling Umbrian countryside but I think that it was more scenic in Tuscany. After enjoying the 180degree panorama, much to Vernon’s excitement we descended the well, then climbed back up the 53 meters – 248 steps. It was built in 1537 on direction of a Pope as Rome was becoming dangerous and he wanted a refuge with a safe water supply. It is unique as it was chiselled out of rock with two independent stair ways for up and down, big enough to accommodate a donkey for carrying the water. It is hollow with 70 windows cut into the walls to light the central shaft. If it had been above ground it would not look dissimilar to the leaning tower of Pisa. It was fun going down and not too crowded at all which allowed us to experience the cool, dark, stoney history. The trip up was not too bad, only a couple of stops and a little sweat up as we emerged back into the sunlight and the 21st century.

A popular lunch takeaway here is a chewy roll with cold stuffed roast pork for €3, and it was mighty tasty. We washed it down with good coffee and I actually found an artichoke on offer. It was cooked whole and was meltingly soft with a bread and olive oil type sauce on the side. You ate the whole thing including the stalk – well I did any way! We went back to our room for a rest and to collect our bags and were seen off by our host like a doting uncle. Our train trip to Rome was a speedy 1.5 hrs.

Rome Termini train station was a shock, OMG its huge and armed police are everywhere with their fascist style uniforms and stoic faces. Lines and platforms as far as the eye can see, not to mention the people. That being said it is well sign posted in English and we had no problem finding the transfer to the metro from the regional trains.

Slight problem though, our line was underground, and I mean way under. I think we descended about 8 levels. To me this is unnatural and a bit claustrophobic especially with thousands of other people. The actual metro was packed and the air was warm and thick. Me no like! We were on high pick pocket alert but survived ok and with the excellent directions from our B&amp;B host we popped out at St Peters station and walked about 100 meters in total to get to our apartment. We had to go up an old claustrophobic cage lift from the 1930’s (called ‘Cram’ – brand) and through a narrow door that my bag hardly fit through before we entered our lovely renovated apartment.

David is an Englishman of Jamaican decent and a live wire who probably should give up the espresso. He welcomed us warmly, gave us the key and run down of the apartment and then a 2 hr overview on Rome over a map with must do’s and don’ts. By the time he was finished we were shattered and it was after 10pm so we just got some snacks from the help yourself overstocked fridge and crashed about midnight.

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