<![CDATA[

Vernazza, Italy

We planned to the take the ferry to the far end of the 5 towns that make up the Cinque Terre and then walk between three to get back to Vernazza, and then train the final and most difficult track to the last one. The first part of the plan worked well, however when we went to buy our national park ticket which is required for walking the trails we were advised that all the tracks were closed except the difficult one due to slips. Bummer, but no worries we got plenty of exercise exploring the towns and training in-between which was free with the pass, so much so we were both poopered by the end of the day.

The ferry trip itself was nice, crammed like an anchovy with other tourists and had to negotiate a very narrow heaving plank to embark and disembark. It was so bad that all those except the likes of Vernon who has webbed feet had to have help not to fall with the roll. The water wasn’t that rough it was just the angle of the sea and boat direction – so I am told by mer-man.

Riomaggiore was our first stop, and it had a nice vibe. At the dock we climbed around the rocks for a photo opportunity of the town viewed from the sea and to eat our takeaway breakfast (foccacia again and nice quiche/rice pie) when a cheeky large gull made friends with us. He was very pretty and we called him Mario. Vernon ended up hand feeding him a bit, and a couple of other tourists and a cute little girl joined in the fun watching Vernon with ‘Mario’. The town is a lot steeper than Vernazza and a bit bigger. Food is a little cheaper and there is more choice. It doesn’t have as nice a plaza or harbour front. Unlike Vernazza it allows cars through – which can be fun on narrow lanes, Vernazza is the only car free town of the five which is nice.

Next stop we shot all the way to the other end to Monterosso al Mare which is the biggest town. Known to be a lot more ‘touristy’ it does boast a beautiful beach like a mini Nice. I was disappointed that I didn’t wear my togs that day as I would have happily enjoyed the water which was refreshing and the sun was nice and warm. I did get a bit wet regardless though which was no problem as tights soon dry off!

The town is divided by a little tunnel between the older and newer section. On one end of the bay is a neat carving out of the rock – like a sea god (not sure), It is not uncommon to see big hunks of marble on the beach – see photo of the big pink rocks. We had a nice explore amongst the lush vegetation all with the smell of Gardenia and lemon blossoms (see the photo of the huge gardenia tree, one of many) I have noticed that the spring flowers over here are larger and brighter in colour than at home. Some azalaeas and geraniums I have seen are spectacular, not to mention Hydrangeas in the most amazing dark cerise pink!

We had a snack of two anchovies with stuffing sandwiched between, lightly crumbed and fried, and stuffed courgette and pepper which was mighty tasty then dragged ourselves away from the sun and azure sea to see the last village of Manarola. We deceided to give Corneiglia a miss as it is tiny and doesn’t have much other than views AND its 300 steps up from the train station and there is only so much hill climbing we can fit in a day.

Manarola like all of them has its own character but compared to the others it felt a little crammed on the hill. It had a lovely little bay for swimming but a steep decent to it. There were lots of young people sunning themselves on rocks like crustaceans and it was interesting to see that the fisherman hoisted their small boats up out of the sea and down again with a winch device.

We arrived back home and showered before dinner feeling the relaxed effects of a warm day exploring in the sun. We went back to the restaurant that we dined at the second night as I saw a lovely vege soup that I was craving. It was a pesto minestrone and was delicious – their chocolate fondant pudding was something to be experienced more than once too! For a main I had stuffed baby calamari with octopus cream in a rich tomato sauce and Vernon had ravioli with a cream nut sauce. Yep it was a NOM NOM night.

As we were walking back to our room feeling very satisfied a slightly round young Italian with a leather bike jacket outside a wine bar says “hey where you going?” we replied to our room. “No, no you must stay and have a drink” We tried to decline saying thanks but no thanks but nec minute his arm is around my waist and he is whisking me off inside to shout us drinks. Oh yeah, still got it! He he he. This was in the plaza area below our window – well Vernon had no option but to follow me and we waited a while inside the tiny bar to get our order but they were busy and Vernon wanted to boost it as we had early departure. Under protests and more physically trying to steal me we made our escape leaving with wonderful memories of romantic italians, a waterfront lit old town and CInque Terre magic.

]]>