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Vernazza, Italy

Its mid evening and the sea is splashing rhythmically against the embankment whilst sweet Mediterranean cooking smells overlaid with garlic are wafting up through the open window. I can hear the happy murmurs of customers in the square below and my window frames a view of the old Church tower. The white wine produced from grapes grown on the hills I clambered up today is very smooth and fragrant and I am so laxed out I wonder what to write? Vernon is also not much use as he is in total relax mode also. The Italian Riviera is everything its promised to be and we could stay put for quite some time!

Despite the church bell ringing regularly up until 11pm and lots of happy customers below we had a very sound sleep for about 10 hours. The forecast was for showers and thunderstorms but we woke to a lovely sunny day. I think the weather reports (acu-weather) we are looking at are not very accurate, certainly not complaining though. We had breakfast takeaway local style from a bakery just around the corner. I was too hungry to take the camera – sorry folks – and the food went down the hatch quicker than a Ferrari!

We had focaccia with tomato, mozzarella (fresh) and speck, a thin pastry spinach quiche tart, a calzone with ham, cheese and tomato, and an oval shaped custard pie – totally encased in a thin sweet crisp pastry OMG NOM NOM NOM again. You may say what piggies – truth is it was actually brunch by the time we had it, and we had hill climbs on the agenda for the day. OK? Justification out of the way I can confirm the Italians can bake …..

We then climbed the hill behind us to the castle ruins (Castello Doria) you see on the photos. The tower was tiny and the steps so tight and winding that I got dizzy walking up and had to stop twice LOL, felt a little uncomfortable at the top as it was quite small (my vertigo) but enjoyed it none the less. We then made our way back down the maze of narrow stone lanes to check the train schedule for getting to Pisa tomorrow, then up the other side of the town to view the scenery back the other way.

The way they build these cliff towns is fascinating. Space is a premium and streets dive and turn and climb at impossible angles. Houses are narrow and tall and cling like barnacles to the rock. Its a no car zone except in the very back parts by the valley. People have pot plants for greenery and some have tiny wee gardens tucked against the cliffs or on top of houses. The doors are small and the streets narrow – fitting the smaller race of people. Although plaster and paint may be peeling in places it is very clean, recycling bins are available in one area where it is centralised for collection. No graffiti or litter here!

We went high up on the hills opposite the castle to a building we thought was a dwelling, but it was a hill top above the ground cemetery of white walls with crypts in them. Flowers and photos adorned the front of every one. They only dated back to about 1960, so I think they must recycle them. Stands to reason that they use these above ground systems (walls with about 6 (crypts) high and 30 long) as the ground is quite rocky. It was a beautiful peaceful place with great views.

On the way back we found a cafe at the back of the town run by a Sicilian who was very lively and maintained his cannoli, panacotta and everything on the menu was the best! He was very funny and entertaining and after sampling his panacotta with rum infusion, fresh fruits, and cream and cannoli crispy fresh with ricotta, dried fruits and chocolate I would have to agree, washed down by a good Latte. Photo supplied ….. (this was 5pm) Refuelled we bought some local wine to have later with a Pizza which we shared on the waterfront as the sun got lower.

Whilst this town relies heavily from tourism it does not feel touristy. They have done a good balance of maintaining their local lifestyle and catering for the tourists without ripping them off. No hotels are allowed to be built here so you stay in pensions or homes. Also prices are reasonable – they are set for locals and tourists the same. Pretty smart and unique.

Sigh, how can one not be in love with this place of emerald water, blue skies, dramatic green hills with wildflowers, grapes and olives, a rocky stream making its way through the cramped town of old pastel well loved homes, complete with delicious fresh local food and wine?

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